Thanks for the information, everyone.
And to answer you questions;
1: I don't plan on shooting very much 9.3x72R at all, unless I start reloading it. $2.50 per round is a lot of money.
2: If the forend is off the gun is indeed much looser. By Mike's test it is both loose and off face. When the foreend is on it does not move horizontally, and you can only detect up and down movement by holding the gun upside down by the middle of the barrels and the end of the stock, and using your knee to apply pressure up and down. Just picking it up rightside-up by the forend and the grip no motion is detected.
3: I don't really want to glue a shim in with locktite, I want a permanent fix, and it seems like soldering on epoxy residue would be an exercise in frustration. And if something like that would work, wouldn't a piece of paper also if replaced frequently?
4: Yes, I was refering to the regular crappy "Oatey" lead free solder. I don't ever remember seeing lead solder anywhere around here, and MSC and McMaster Carr only sell it it large spools. I am looking at some Ersin Multicore 60/40 on ebay right now.
So I guess at this point the soldered shim is my best choice for a permanent repair? Will the 60/40 solder I'm looking at be good? Also, I like the idea of using a blade from a cheap feeler gauge, it would save me from buying a sheet of shim stock. I assume that it would be appropriate to make sure its soft so it will wear before the pin and temper it if necessary?
Thanks again,
Chaz
Last edited by Chaz; 04/09/11 03:26 PM.
