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#227580 05/03/11 04:23 PM
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OK,
So how is the parallel groove put in on the high side of the cheek piece? My mind is working, maybe too hard.


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Sidelock
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I'm no pro, but I'd put a piece of 1/8" masking tape around the edge to guide me, then cut it with Dem-Bart's short headed checkering tool,not too deep. Then finish it off with a bent needle nose triangular file & sandpaper. Lots of Luck,MIKE

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Slightly oversize starting dimension, cut in your groove with whatever suits you, finish cheekpiece to the groove to finished dimension going slowly.

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I have a tool mostly built, similar to an old molding plane. I will finish it in the morning, so far, tests look good.


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Never having executed said detail on a cheek piece, I will venture that the tool to do it would be a simple beading tool, or something similar, no?

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Boxlock
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I’ve done several of those with a small curved round file that I bought years ago; they’re really not hard to do. I’ve never made a jig ‘cause cheek pieces tend to vary in thickness and they’re tapered, so I think its best to eyeball them. It also helps to have an original Winchester stock to copy.

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Any one have a picture of one they can post?

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I can email a pic tomorrow if someone will post it.

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The cheek piece was done with a combination of safe edge files, half round and rat tail files and went very smoothly. It is the fine line at the very upper edge that is sometimes present on higher grade guns that I am thinking about. Finished the first pattern of my tool today but did not have time to try it out. I did see one commercially available beading tool that might work, but will try the shop built version first.


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