doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com For Ma' Parker

sorry chuck, but you have no way of knowing what you are talking about here, unless you worked with old ed in his shop when he was working on this particular gun....

what i do know is that over the past 12 years or so, i have sold several dozen guns of various manufacture, all of which had the receiver and other parts recolored by ed lander. i have yet to have a complaint nor a return. the fact is, i have received many compliments for the quality of his work and the price paid.

I always thought case hardening was a process for putting a hard case/surface on a steel part to improve wear without making the whole part brittle. Case/surface is usually only .003 to .030 inch thick.The colors come from what ever contaminates were present in the heating process, and the carbon being imparted in the case layer. Are we discussing the same thing here?

Craig

craig: we are discussing a lot of things here....as far as i know, you are correct in your definition of case hardening. i also know that it is not necessary to re harden metal in order to recolor it.

Yes, we are. But, we are getting the same weasely answers we have in the past from the seller. It will get better, before it is over- Here, watch:
"Hey Ed, since you are blowing liquid sunshine up our collective asses on the colors, explain why the master gunsmith chose to leave the gun with lever well left of center"?
This 'ought to be good....

Best,
Ted

if you pull the trigger plate and make a small cut with a graver you can see how much it has softened .i agree with chuck on the color,, heat range. i have cased and re-case colored guns and never heat as high as 1600 degrees.i think this gun would have been better off left alone.instead of half way job.but it is his gun and he can do what he wants.mc

Chuck, you have mentioned something I've been wondering about. I have a field grade Ith.NID that someone has done a lot of fancy engraving on. Its blued, so I figure it was probably annealed to engrave and never case hardened again. Unless you wanted to reproduce the case colors, why would the frame need to be re-cased?

Ithaca sold its Western Long Range line contemporaneously with the NIDs with unhardened malleable iron frames and they have held up just as well as the NIDs. What do you think?...Geo

All else aside, it looks like hell.

This is the shotgun equivalent of Tammy Faye Baker.

ted: perhaps you would like to elaborate on what you mean by past weasely answers....as for the position of double gun top levers; this is an indication that the bolting system may be worn. however, just because the bolt is worn, does not necessarily mean the gun is not in safe shooting condition. if the bolt does wear to the point that the gun is becoming loose and unsafe, then it should be repaired. some bolting systems are more durable than others. parkers have very durable bolts. should a parker bolt ever wear to the point that it needs repair, then updating the bolt with what is known as king's improvement is the suggested fix.

I owned an Ithaca Long Range gun in 12 gauge that was about 99.5% condition, and the frame was indeed color case hardened.
Beautifully color case hardened. They are made of mallable iron, but, they are definately hardened.

Best,
Ted

You know, Ed, I've been here long enough to know why the bolt is to the left, and, interestingly, how and when to use capitol letters and punctuation in a post. I'm curious to know why your gun wrench gave it a quicky color job and didn't give it what it really needs, which, would be the fix you suggested....remove the forend on that gun, and it will clatter when held by the barrels and shaken a bit-we call that condition off face. You have quite literally put lipstick on a pig, instead of fixing what was wrong.
Thats also what I mean by weasely, Ed.


Best,
Ted