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well, lets first establish that two side by side shotgun barrels are held together by the top rib only. and that the bottom rib is nothing more than a cosmetic filler. anybody disagree with that?


keep it simple and keep it safe...
mc #235728 07/15/11 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted By: mc
well old ed landers says to tap the barrel with a brass rod to see if it rings like a bell to check for lose ribs.


I hang the barrels by the hook from the forefinger of my left hand. I tap the ribs (top and bottom) about every 2" or 3" and note any dead spots. I look for signs of corrosion or gaps in any dead spots. There is always a dead spot by the loop and the hook.

I don't like the case coloring Ed Good has Ed Landers do to some of the actions of the doubles he buys and then sells. He bought them and they are his to with do as he pleases. But I think it diminishes the guns and I do not enjoy Ed Good's posts here nor do I find them helpful nor do they add to my knowledge of or enjoyment of my hobby.

Mike

Last edited by AmarilloMike; 07/15/11 09:41 PM.


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Yes, but can the frame be corrected by someone who knows what they are doing? Or is it a total loss now??

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guess not?


keep it simple and keep it safe...
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Or we could discuss pigs in tutus - at least it's on topic smile




Please consider giving it a rest Ed

Last edited by Drew Hause; 07/15/11 10:52 PM.
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mc Offline
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amarillomike and drew,good post.if you fire a sxs with out the bottom rib it will lose the top rib, there are guns with limited ribs but they are designed and built and anchored at the breech and muzzle.what this has to do with spot softening an action to get colors i don't know. but like old ed landers says anything free is worth saving up for.

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Quality case coloring should provide cosmetic enhancement without endangering gun integrity or shooter safety....Be careful if you are contemplating sending your prized shotgun's receiver to a high heat bone charcoal mechanic.. He is going heat it up to around 1600 degrees F... Make sure that you get it in writing, that if the receiver warps in the heating and tempering process or that if it cracks after firing, then the mechanic will assume full financial responsibility for the destruction of your gun and/or your personal injury.

A low, controlled heat process, combined with specific chemicals is the safest way to recolor a shotgun receiver. So long as the heat is kept low and controlled, the original receiver metallurgy and heat treatment is not changed. No harm is done to the gun nor is there any potential for danger to the shooter, as a result of the re coloring process.

I myself do not do any gun work of any kind. I have neither the skill nor the patience. Instead, i utilize the services of Ed Lander, for most of my repair and enhancement needs. Old Ed has over 60 years of experience in the gunsmithing trade and does fine work at a fair price. He has recolored literally hundreds if not thousands of shotguns receivers using his low controlled heat, chemical process.

Ed Lander has developed his techniques over many years of trial and error. He even has different chemical formulas that simulate different factory colors for different guns, depending on when they were made. He may use a potters kiln to precisely control heat. What i do know, is that his top priorities in all of his work are shooter safety and customer satisfaction.


keep it simple and keep it safe...
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GJZ Offline
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You remind me very much of Fred Sanford.

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thank you , but i only wish i was that clever and that funny.


keep it simple and keep it safe...
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Ed,
1600F is way to hot a temperature for case hardening. At this temperature you are likely to get warpage. When I recase harden an action I first anneal it at 1450F then do any repairs and polishing. I then pack the parts in crucible with bone and wood charcoal. I heat the parts to 1350F and quench at between 1150F and 1250F. I know some who use slightly higher temperatures with excellent results. The colors you get with a torch are temper colors. Using a torch will soften the action in areas. This will not cause any serious damage unless done on an assembled action (I hope at least all of the springs are removed before torching). It just leaves you with an ugly gun. Torch colors have more yellows and purples and tend to have bullseyes of color than true case colors. True case colors have more greens. Torch colors should be represented for what they are and never as case colors. With a torch it is impossible to control the temperature so a description of "carefully controlled heat process" is fraudulent.

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