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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,859
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,859 |
For future reference, not only does a day long acetone bath do wonders removing the old finish from wood (and also oil stains from around the action areas), it's also great for soaking paint from steel parts.
I started to go into your mistake of hot-bluing soldered barrels, but have decided one of the board gunsmiths can break the bad news to you.
Steve
Last edited by Rockdoc; 10/11/11 09:32 AM.
Approach life like you do a yellow light - RUN IT! (Gail T.)
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 794 Likes: 37
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 794 Likes: 37 |
If you really blued the barrels by modern hot dipped salts you have very likely ruined that set of barrels. The lead based solder used to attach ribs and lumps is not compatable with the bluing salts and the barrels may look nice now, but the ribs may soon loosen. If there were any leaks in the ribs those caustic salts are still under the ribs causing corrosion. If you had asked here about appropriate methods we could have helped. Rust bluing would have been safe and proper for refinishing barrels of a vintage SXS. If you don't know what rust bluing is I give up. A fresh coat of Rustoleum would have been better.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,307
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,307 |
Kurt, check your emails. I sent you an explanation of what these guys are talking about. I know this is new, you'll understand better when you read the email. Also, If you want to email your pictures to me, I'll post them for you.
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,698 Likes: 46
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,698 Likes: 46 |
My grey matter is yelling at me telling me that I seem to remember that Mortimers were Winchester gunsmiths???
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 38
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 38 |
I DID NOT CAUSTIC BLUE THE DBL BARRELS, DUE TO THE SOFT SOLDER AND THE TEMPS. NECCESSARY. I USED THE DICROPAN-IM WHICH IS APPLIED THEN THE BARRELS ARE DIPPED INTO THE HOT WATER 212 degrees max. tHE UNDER SIDE OF THE BARREL RIB HAD TWO PRE-DRILLED HOLES ALREADY, AND THEY GET PLUGGED WHEN I APPLY THE DICROPAN, BUT REMOVED BEFORE IT GOES BACK INTO THE HOT WATER.
THE BARRELS WERE POWDER BLASTED, I DO NOT HAVE A BEAD BLASTER BUT KEEP CALLING THIS MACHINE A BEAD BLASTER. THEY ARE NOT FLUID STEEL, I AM NOT SURE WHERE THAT CAME FROM, BUT THE TOP OF THE RIB IT STATES "LONDON FINE TWISTED STEEL", THE TWISTS ARE VERY VISIBLE EVEN AFTER THE BLUING, AND CERTAINLY THEY WERE NOT UNDER RUST-O-LEUM BRUSH PAINTED BARRELS.
AS FOR THE BLUING ONCE COMPLETED THE BARRELS ARE SUSPENDED...NOT SET IN...BUT SUSPENDED IN WATER DISPLACING OIL FOR 48 HOURS FOR THE WATER DISPLACING OIL TO STOP ANY RUSTING INSIDE THE HOLES OF THE TWO BARRELS AND ANY WHERE ELSE IT COULD BE DUE TO WATER OR EVEN MOISTURE.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 38
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 38 |
I AM GLAD SO MANY PEOPLE WERE ON THIS SO QUICKLY. IT IS NICE TO KNOW THAT THERE ARE PEOPLE OUT THERE WHO WOULD OFFER ADVICE AND SHOW CONCERNS.
THANK YOU ALL,
KURT
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284 |
Hi Kurt, no worries. Put up some photos if you would like us to comment.
Regards,
Tony
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 794 Likes: 37
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 794 Likes: 37 |
Kurt-Glad you used the Dicropan. That's a tough finish. Let's see some pictures..
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