A lot of this depends on the design of the action and locking mechanism-- The top rotary tapered bolt (L.C. Smith, AH Fox and Ithacas- both Flues and especially the later NID series) like any locking mechanism with a tapered mortise, will wear away metal contact points over time and usage--
Other boxlock guns-like the Parker with the 1905 Hayes design tool steel wear plate that is pinned and is replaceable, and the later Win M21 with the set screw adjustment for degree of "bite" of the bolt to the barrel lug notch, are somewhat different-
First thing I would do- with the gun unloaded of course, and hammers cocked, remove the forearm- and check the barrel breech to receiver face contact- any serious 'play' usually means the gun is "off-face" and that can mean a rebuilding of the barrel lug radius, possible replacement or build up on the hinge pin- to bring it back to factory specs-
If the barrels are set tight, even with the top lever on center or slightly to left of the center of the top tang, then I would replace the forearm and slowly move the top lever to the right, as if you were opening it. I have "safe cracker" sensitive fingers, so I can feel the point where the "free play" in the lever starts to end and the metal to metal- vis a vis the engagement of all the locking parts in that gun's design, start to make contact- usually easier for me with a top rotary bolt fastener shotgun--
Your gunsmith is always the best place to start-And you will note the absence of Over/Unders and british Purdey double underbolted design guns from my comments- I have NO experience with those--
Last edited by Run With The Fox; 12/02/11 09:34 AM.
