doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Stuck choke tube?. What not to try.

My shooting student Joe Wood has had some rather miraculous results loosening frozen screws using Marvel Mystery Oil in minute quantities.

I only had one stuck tube and I took it out in the back yard and shot it until it got hot. Tube came right out

Having lived in the rust belt for many years, I learned early on how to remove rusted and stuck parts. Add some heat (not enough to melt lead) squirt on some penetrating oil and repeat 2 to 3 times. Usually the part will easily come apart after such treatment. It's worked on choke tubes, percussion nipples, and God only knows how many rusted on car parts.
Steve

I vote for the Senna. It might not remove the chokes but it might turn the barrels back to black. At least it does for the inside of the colon if you use it long enough. Believe me, I know, I see it every week (not my colon).

all humor aside the issue points to the value of removing and cleaning everytime the gun is fired and or cleaned. Keeping the threads in the barrel and on the tube clean and lubricated will ensure no problems. We all know this, but most us, to include myself, need the occasional bitter experience to remeber it.

I am amazed how painful lessons learned young have stuck with me while easy stuff well accomplished is forgotten.

I have removed a couple of stuck choke tubes, one was a rusty 870 barrel on a gun I was given. Instead of trying to turn the choke tube with the wrench, I put the wrench in a vise and turned the barrel against the wrench after letting some penetrating oil soak in overnight. Worked both times.

Tell my juniors to remove the choke tubes, brush out the muzzles with an oily toothbrush, clean and grease the choke tube threads, reinsert, but not all the way in, only tighten up just before shooting.
Mike

I purchased an old 870 Express years ago with a stuck choke tube (rusted in place). After I got it out by heating and the judicious application of penetrating oil, I cleaned out the threads on both the choke tube and the barrel. Before I put the choke tube back in, I coated the threads with an automotive anti-seize compound normally used for spark plugs and O2 sensors (appeared to be graphite based grease). I never had problems after that, of course I'd put a fresh dab of compound on everytime I removed or replaced the choke tube.
Steve

I believe the anti-seize compound that Rockdoc is referring to is the high temp nickel based variety. It is a very dark gray color and seems to be much better than the cheaper copper based type... even when used in lower temp applications. Costs a little more but worth every dime. A little goes a long way.

LocTite brand graphite, hi-temp anti seize in stick form. About the size of a fat Chapstick, easy to keep in the truck or the cleaning kit. Does not leak or melt if you leave it in a hot truck, very easy and clean to use. No black/gray stains on your finger tips.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LCT-37617/