Not to overstate the obvious here, but unlike our fine boxlocks: Parker, AH Fox, Ithaca etc-- when you diss-assemble your Smith, make sure the hammers are cocked back and into the sears- if you can freely 'wiggle" each of the cocking axles, the hammers are cocked- and make sure the axle tips are at the top of the receiver "nose" when you put the lockplates back- with the hammers cocked- so avoid interference with the lifters-- I usually mark each firing pin as to right and left barrel position- they can vary, even without wear-- And as both the rear machine screw for the trigger plate locking(through the stock hole) that "bottoms" into the top tang and the machine screw for the lockplates at the rear (two others in the front on the FW(E) series Smiths) have the same head and thread size, one is longer than the other, so I usually turn the lock plate machine screw a few turns into the threaded hole in the right barrel side lockplate- I use magnets on my bench to keep the small pins, machine screws, etc from "getting away"--or lost-- Let me know if you need parts, I just bought two 12 gauge "parts guns- both Smiths of course-- Love dem "Elsies" like a schoolboy loves his pie!!
