doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Ithaca 10 gauge Magnum

My "Star" version field grade 16ga has a serial number which "dates" to 1926. Go figure...Geo

My non-mag 10 gauge (below 500000)

Mr. Carr,
My guess is a very good replacement. Reasons: no mention of either the M.C. or rounded pistol grip on the invoice, the frame has been blued. Someone did some work on the gun and likely restocked it. If factory, the sn should be stamped into the wood under the trigger guard tang. Enjoy your American classic!

www.gunstocksinc.com has the 90% inletted for a nice price. You could save yours and make a new one. Paul

I would not be replacing that stock if the gun belonged to me. It's a perfectly serviceable stock in an interesting design.

Looks like the triggers were bent forward. Probably to give the shooter a touch more LOP or to make them more comfortable with the stock drop.
I'd put those back to were they belong, put a stock on it with standard dimensions,,, might as well redo the metal & finishes too.
The tangs might be bent for the extreme drop. But putting those back isn't a problem if you're doing the metal up anyway.

Probably one of those 'not worth the investment' things but it's a neat gun and a nice project.
I could think of worse things to spend time on.

Good catch on the triggers, Kutter! One of those things that, once I was made aware of it, they stuck out like a neon sore thumb.

Thanks for all of the information. Considering just how much I will really shoot the gun, I think I will leave it as is. It only has one issue which I must get fixed. The top lever is right of center but I believe the reason for this is the gun is not closing all of the way. I fired the gun with non-magnum loads, and all was fine. As soon as I loaded the magnum loads, the gun would come open upon firing. Any thoughts on what may be going on and who I might send it to would be much appreciated.

Thanks Phil

Just from memory, I suggest that, after cleaning out all the related locking parts, that you completely dry those parts of grease and oil. The problem can require more attention, but I have heard that the drying of the parts sometimes does the job. I have not fired mine with magnum loads yet.

With the gun having been re-blued (frame),,it's been apart,,or at least he hope so! for the process.

Upon reassembling the NID and others with the same type set up like a Fox, it's strong bolt/top lever spring gives many some problems.
I've seen a few with a some-what weaker substitute bolt spring in place. I assumed to make re-assembly a more plesent job.

The guns will open up upon fireing if the bolt spring isn't up to specs. They will also do the same if the rotary bolt isn't closing properly onto it's rib extension cut.

Perhaps a replacement rotary bolt was dropped in when reassenbled to tighen 'er up and it made a nice 'lever to the right' situation and it looked good.
But isn't really locked securely and it shows itself with the bigboy loads.

Too many use the top lever as some sort of dial indicator arrow to read the lock up on doubles. It really has nothing to do with it.
Only a careful check and spotting in of the locking surfaces can really tell you how well it's engaged,, and how far along the wear is.
You have to feel and read the slop in the mechanism too. It allows lever movement after the bolt is secure.

If the lever was to the left, but the breech felt tight, most would be concerned.
Remove the lever and bent the tail slightly to the right to make it appear less wear was involved,,the same people feel fine about the lock up. It's done more often than most think.
A fine appearing lever to the right may be only catching the locking surface on the rib by a small amount. Appears all is well, shoots OK with field loads. But fails with Hi-Test loads.


Just a couple of possibles,,along with the plain old dirt, grease & crud in the mechanism suggested by 8bore.

If the frame & parts were hot-blued,,it is entirely possible that an incomplete flush of the blueing salts have left some inside there in the corners/edges.
Packed & hardened in there, it can interfer with the movement of the parts. Plus the stuff makes for rust as it absorbs moisture.

Plenty of things to look for..