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Joined: Apr 2011
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I have found the inlettng wood will soak up easy two coats of super glue with no build up.


Here's where I got the idea; Krazy glue is mentioned.

http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/17090409

And here. Also off the Elsie site; Dan May's tutorial.

The remainder of the inletting was then sealed using the same water-thin cyanoacrylate glue that was used to repair the cracks. When applied in this fashion, the glue will find any minute cracks that were otherwise unreachable and will seal the inletting against future oil migration from the action.

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2holer

Good to know. I may give it a try. I'm assuming you let the cyanoacrylate cure w/o reassembling wood to the metal & any preferences on the brand of cyanoacrylate?

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No, let it dry. I use the original Super Glue; the water thin type; not gel. I don't think it makes any difference as long as it is the cyanocrylate.

End grain wood soaks it up real fast.

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I recently used super thin CA to seal the inletting on a stock I made for a Baker thinking (right or wrong) that besides sealing against oil it would strengthen the wood against setback and cracking. The wood, black walnut, was from a blank I cut from the stump over 30 years ago so it was definitely dry. CA is used to harden threaded wood in model building...works really well on balsa or ply. I am aware of one well known stock maker that uses CA for the complete finish, internal and external on rifle stocks. They look great.

Last edited by SamW; 03/23/12 03:58 PM.

Sam Welch
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Joined: Aug 2010
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The trouble with sealing agents is that thay seen to promote shrinkage so next year you mite have some unwelcomb gapps in that inlleting, Browning did at one time us a thin redoxide and this certanly stoped any wood to metal rusting I think this may have been when thay were german occupied The only way to keep oil out of the wood is dont put to much on in the first place.

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In the epoxy biz, the generally recommended thinner is xylol/xylene (same stuff under two different names). Acetone and lacquer thinner will also work, but the manufacturers with whom I have discussed this recommend xylene.

Properly applied epoxies will harden the wood fibers, but can also add structural integrity. Abatron in Chicago sells structural epoxies for architectural restoration of decayed and missing wood, including some load-bearing applications.

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Just to jump back at this subject for a second... all cyanoacrylate glues are not created equally. Go to the Loctite website and checkout their strength data on the various types.

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Zap A Gap has worked very well for me repairing gunstocks. It is recommended for wood by SuperGlue Corp.

SRH


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Are there any videos or picture trails that show how to glass bed a stock to a receiver. I have seen plenty on repairs of cracked stocks but not for mating a butt stock to a receiver.


So many guns, so little time!
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A little glass on the recoil bearing surfaces for a perfect mating and thereby greatly reducing the chance of stock cracks. I also put acraglass at other key points of the inletting to further prevent cracks. It has been done for a loooong time.

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