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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Probably the reason you're not getting many responses Steve is everyone thinks you should just leave it alone. Just make a clean wall hanger out of it or a parts gun. I wouldn't trust it.  O ye, of little faith! It's too ugly to be a wallhanger (would you want that on your wall?) Besides, making it not so ugly is the challenge. At the risk of pissing-off the people who own Stevens 311's in .410 gauge, I think it looks better than one of them, right from the git-go. Seriously, it's in excellent mechanical shape, it locks up tight, the barrels are unpitted and the proper internal diameter (I measured them). I'm not afraid at all to shoot it, after all it was only made about 30 years ago from modern steel alloys (if only I can get them to take bluing). What I should have done first was to take it out to the range to check for point of impact before I did anything else. I hope after I get it back together that little slip up doesn't come back to bite me in the ass! Steve
Approach life like you do a yellow light - RUN IT! (Gail T.)
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Sidelock
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Thanks steinauge, the discussion's been pretty focused on cosmetics, my fault really. I've already tried to determine if the barrels are soldered or brazed with little success. Putting that aside, does anyone have any experience bluing the barrels on one of these thangs? Steve
Last edited by Rockdoc; 04/26/12 09:01 AM.
Approach life like you do a yellow light - RUN IT! (Gail T.)
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Sidelock
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I changed the subject slightly to refocus. Steve
Last edited by Rockdoc; 04/26/12 10:46 AM. Reason: refocus subject
Approach life like you do a yellow light - RUN IT! (Gail T.)
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Sidelock
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My fault, I missed that it was a Rossi. Never mind, full steam ahead Steve.  But, I like what you did to the stock.
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Steve, I will blue the barrels(free) for you if you will do the polishing.
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Steve, If you feel you must bring this thing back from the far side of ugly, I recommend some heavy filing on the barrels and frame.
The barrels need some blending of the monoblock to the barrels and that stub rib needs to match up to the main rib. That's not all that hard to do with some good new files. That frame looks like it could be made to have a more sculpted form as well. When you do this, put the barrels on the frame in the locked up position before working the area near the barrels or frame.
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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BUT some folks like a girl with HIPS and BUMPS
Last edited by skeettx; 04/26/12 11:52 AM.
USAF RET 1971-95
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Sidelock
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Hi Chuck, I've been planning on rounding the bottom of the frame, but as you can see in the photo there's that damned steel plate that gets in the way, however I can put a little roundness on the bottom edge. As for the monoblock, seeing as how I owned a Manufrance Costo (Robust) for several years and it didn't bother me I suppose I can get used to this as well, though I agree a smooth transition would be better. It appears to be built on a 20 gauge frame, at least it's not a 12 gauge frame.  Sorry this pictures a bit fuzzy. But in this case, maybe that's a good thing (LOL)! Steve PS I imagine the monoblock is also used for a 28 gauge and simply adapted to the .410.
Last edited by Rockdoc; 04/26/12 12:15 PM.
Approach life like you do a yellow light - RUN IT! (Gail T.)
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Sidelock
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Steve, I will blue the barrels(free) for you if you will do the polishing. Leighton, I'd like to take you up on your kind offer. Could I attend the bluing and work along side you so I can learn something about it too? Steve PS I'm a bit worried about the metal taking a bluing, it really looks like some type of cheap stainless steel.
Approach life like you do a yellow light - RUN IT! (Gail T.)
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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It's too ugly to be a wallhanger
Not if you have an ugly wall....
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