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Forums10
Topics40,332
Posts574,111
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Most Online32,084
Jun 14th, 2026
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 502
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 502 |
After attempting to use many many different types of stock finishes, I have returned to using B.L.O. for a finish on my guns stocks!
Yes, I tried many products and many methods of applying different finishes,but I had NO luck with all save one for a finish. This was a poly finis that I put on my Beretta UL after watching Tru Oil wear off in one hunting season! The Tru Oil gave a very glossy finish that I did not care to see on my gun.
The B.L.O. gives me a very "rich" finish that enhances the grain and fills the wood pores quite well. If I have to touch it up after the season, so be it. For now, it looks great!
Has anybody else returned to using B.L.O. for a finish on their guns?
Stay healthy,
Franchi
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 390 Likes: 2
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 390 Likes: 2 |
I've been using BLO, turpentine and alkanet for the initial coats followed by a mixture of BLO and satin wipe on poly. Seems to work rather well and looks good to me. Also easy to put on.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 284
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 284 |
When the RBL seemed to suck up most of its finish over the first year I rubbed in a little blo and the gun looks great. Actually the job of re-oiling a blo finished gun isnt much of a chore -so why not go with it. Especially if you are like me and look at your thane finished guns and dream about stipping that crap off.
h
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,038
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,038 |
Everyone had different experiences. I used to use BLO. I have no idea how many guns I had done in BLO. After using Tru-Oil and how to achieve the finish I like, I will never go back. All the guns I had in BLO have been stripped of it and are now in Tru-Oil, never to go back. How do you keep BLO, from becoming kind of gooey in warm humid weather? I tried everything with it, ultra thin, a little heavier, with JAPAN drier and without. Finally after studying allot of guns, there is just no way o
in my mind that guns with a sporting finish(not military guns) ever used BLO. The hardness just isn't there with BLO. Again, JMHO and your mileage may very.
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 722
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 722 |
If I'm going to use an oil I use refined linseed oil by Winsor and Newton. It seems to "dry" much better than conventional BLO while retaining the desireable appearance. You can find it in the oil painting section of JoAnn's, Michael's and Hobby Lobby. It is considerably more expensive than BLO on a volume basis but for the amount used for gunstocks I don't find it an issue.
Phil
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,227
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,227 |
Do a little research and you'll discover that the water resistance of BLO is a little better than a sock. Tung oil is a little better than that. Urethane-modified oils (TruOil, Permalyn, ProCustom, BenMatte, Waterlox, etc, etc, etc) are considerably better. Straight urethanes and lacquers, though they may have there detractors, are pretty much impervious to water.
If it hangs on the wall, BLO might suffice. If it gets handled/hunted, it will require constant retouching.
I like better living through chemistry.
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 683 Likes: 17
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 683 Likes: 17 |
Any straight oil finish is a very poor barrier against water fenestration. 'Oil finishes' aren't very much better. To achieve some semblance of a moisture barrier, one needs to use a barrier finish such as varnish, polyurethane, lacquer, etc. Good old fashioned spar varnish remains my favorite. It is more flexible than polyurethane and hence resists crazing from repeated wettings when in the hunting fields as the wood expands and contracts (and it will). 8-10 coats, sanded between coats, and ending up with a smooth glassy finish is the goal. Then rub it out with rottenstone (or even 0000 oil-free steel wool) and it'll look for all the world like a "hand rubbed" oil finish, only with about 20 times the moisture resistance.
Regardless, after completing an oil finish, be sure to wax it with a good cabinetmakers wax. That is what will give you a semblance of moisture protection, not the oil in the wood underneath it.
It's what works for me, and merely my personal approach. YMMV.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,522
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,522 |
The boys who build period correct flintlocks find that by properly boiling linseed and adding the correct driers produces a durable varnish which is consistent with originals. Linseed is the basis for most of the older varnish finishes, many of which have withstood centuries of use on both guns and stringed instruments. But if you are talking about boiled linseed as found at the local hardware - that isn't going to help you.
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 290 Likes: 12
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 290 Likes: 12 |
Look around for a real slackum finish formula and then leave out the wax. That is the path I have taken.
W. E. Boyd
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 839
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 839 |
OMG...! this BLO thing is no BFD. IMHO u just gotta use sum of Ho JOe's favorite stuff:
Sperm Oil !
(BTW... he'll be along soon)
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