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Forums10
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Jun 14th, 2026
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 14,641 Likes: 345
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 14,641 Likes: 345 |
I have seen the Behlen's spray laquer recommended by more sources than just our friend Mr. Gaddy. I have not used it, yet.
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 63
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 63 |
rgh25, what is the engraving and the planned use of the gun? For a coin finish on an all steel engraving gun meant for heavy use I like an electroless nickel finish. Very mar and corrosion resistant. Plating would cover over inlays. Sam It is a JP Sauer that is now a 12g rifled bore, I am cleaning up a little bit of discoloration and plan on darkening the existing engraving after polishing the receiver as was original on this gun. I have recut the checkering and once the ribs are re-enstalled blue the barrels. just not sure what to protect the finish. I am tending toward wax at this point but its still kinda-sorta open at this point.
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 14,641 Likes: 345
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 14,641 Likes: 345 |
Behlen's Jet Spray Lacquer, high gloss.
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 63
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 63 |
Behlen's Jet Spray Lacquer, high gloss. I found it on the Grizzly web site $6 for a can plus shipping and handling, looks like it has many uses.
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 363 Likes: 7
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 363 Likes: 7 |
Isn't there some way to chemically 'passivate' the polished surface? Maybe a phosphoric acid pickle, or something?
I have 3 older British boxlocks with an 'in-the-white' finish, and there does not appear to be any coating such as lacquer or wax on them. I suspect that they were originally case colored, but I can find no trace of any color left. Interestingly, they do not seem to be any more succeptable to tarnish, discoloration or rust than my case colored guns.
I would be very interested to find out what is (or was) done to them, if someone knows what how these guns may have been processed.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,883 Likes: 21
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,883 Likes: 21 |
A casehardened part will have plenty of thickness of the hard layer to polish the colors off and leave a uniform finish.
This surface is extremely hard and it is more resistant to rust than normalized steel surfaces.
My preference is for a bare coin finish with either wax or oil for protection.
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,169 Likes: 876
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,169 Likes: 876 |
As Chuck H notes, a case hardened surface is more resistant to corrosion than an unhardened surface, even after the colors are long gone. Also, a highly polished surface is less apt to rust because it has a lot less surface area for moisture and oxygen to react with the steel. While phosphoric acid does leave a chemical coat that resists ferric oxide formation for a time, it will also etch the surface, and is very unattractive for use on guns. It is best left as a cleaner for steel that will be primed and painted.
Unless you plan on neglecting your gun, an occasional coat of good wax is probably all you need.
The NRA has proven itself unreliable and corrupt. Period.
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