Hi Again:
I have always heated my rattle cans before I use them. I have sprayed on hot wood and this led to a finish that did not flow out well before setting up on the surface. I did have a fear that perhaps the rattle can in 195 degree water could risk the chance that the can may explode. It has never happened but I have no idea as to how much pressure is produced when the can is heated. I have never heated the can to a point where I could not hold it in my bare hand.
I did 26 coats with sanding down with 400 W&D used with water between coats to fill the grain but that was not the answer. The grain was filled but at a coat a day at best, it was not practical for me to spend that much time on the stock. I can not finish a stock in the house due to dust and the stock risked damage taking it outside for each application.
The heck of it is that if I wanted a gloss finish, that would be easy! Lol
I am having a difficult time getting the varnish to dry in this high humidity. What are your thoughts about adding some Japan Drier to the finish to get it to dry a bit faster?
Oh yes! Rub the finish with a finger or heel of your hand until it gets warm is a laugh! Look at the surface after one does this. It is far from smooth! Lol
I tried a true rubbed linseed oil finish back in the 50's. The only thing that changed was that the heels of my hands were yellow and tanned like leather. Lol I was supposed to rub one coat of linseed oil until it got warm with the heels of my hands a coat a day for 30 days. After 30 days and 30 coats of oil, I had a sticky mess!!!!
I did get a very thick but smooth coat of varnish on a stock by using a 1" brush. It was very thick even and glossy! I started to rub it down with Pumice, but all that did was make the finish smooth.
For a hunting gun that takes a large amount of abuse, I found that poly was the only thing thet would hold up for one season. Tru Oil was a joke on a hunting gun! The gun still looks good.
Be well my friends,
Franch
