doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Lc.Smith question...

Thanks
I am stumped
Pictures would be helpful
Mike

The code for your Elsie translated to- O grade, selective ejectors, Hunter One Trigger. If you have the later style, regardless of the escutcheon shape, the forearm with be stamped with the patent date May 28 1901- The second series of ejectors, aka- Lewis Patent--see Houchin's book for more details- these ejectors are almost foolproof, Hunter Arms used that design from 1901 until production ended in the 1950's with no changes. I have 5 12 gauge Smiths ( 4 pre-1913) and 3 of them have these ejectors-- and they will throw the empties a country mile when I unbreech the gun-- Parker ejectors-- well, they have kept many a gunsmith well employed--watch the sides of the splinter forearm for potential splits, as another gent posted, you mus always have the hammers recocked before you re-position the forearm (whether ejector or extractor)-- the two rearmost positioning screws that keep the anvil (the curved rearmost section of the forearm iron) secured to the wood forearm-- I epoxy hard dowell inthose two holes and re-drill for the screws- CAREFULLY--

Fox, The letter 0 does not mean 0 Grade. Here is a break-down of what the letter symbols mean. E-ejectors, 0-Hunter-One-Trigger, N-non selective one-trigger, B-Beavertail, V-ventilated rib, SP-single Sighting Plane rib, L-Longrange/Wildfowl, S- Single barrel Trap Gun

I stand corrected on the June patent date on the for-end, that is a patent for the "J" spring.
It should be June 1,'80 and the only patent ever used by Baker after that on L.C. Smith guns.

I was thinking about the gun again , and was wondering about the fact that before I owned the gun Lord know's what could have been done with it...I don't suppose the previous owner,may have changed out the ejector's,and they may be a little too long...I'll take them out this week and report back.


Thank's for the help so far.

Newf, before you go that far, I would do as skeettx stated, take the wood from the for-end iron and then put it back on the gun and see what is happening. It could be as Top Gun stated, the long slender part of the iron might be bent. You will also see how the "J" spring and the roller release hold the for-end on the barrel.
As I stated before, with the hammers cocked, there should be no looseness in the for-end.

Already did that.

Skeettx,
Thanks for the warm welcome! I hate feeling like I hi-jacked this thread, so I'll be brief. I've been away from the forum for a couple of days or I'd have replied sooner. I've been monitoring this forum for about a year and enjoy learning form the experienced folks here. Treasure trove of info. I'm right active on the LCSCA forum, and moderately so on the Parker site. I'm ate up with Elsies, so my eyes are always drawn to any post that mentions them!
As RWTF assumed, the gun I referred to is an O grade, and apologies to David W. for botching the abbreviation of its parameters.
While I perform all manners of repairs on LC Smith shotguns, for myself and lots of friends, I've not encountered the issue that the OP faces at present, and I look forward to hearing the resolution.
Thanks again,
John

John
You are most welcome
I agree, I see no reason for this happening.
With the barrels off, the forend mates up well to the receiver
With the barrel on, the forend has a gap that can not be compessed.

I am at a loss with one exception. JUST A GUESS!!
That being, the forend barrel lug came off and was re-soldered in the wrong location,
and with the V of the banjo lug holding the forend out.

And since the forend is not tight to the barrels the lug may also have been repositioned too high also.



Tough to figure out what to show and get the light right
As measured 2.925"


Mike

Mike, I think you're on to something,there is a slight bump in the lower rib no where near the lug (muzzle end),but it suggest's a rib re-lay may have happened in the past...I'm going to pull out the ejector /extractor arm's just to see this evening ,I'm not fussy on stripping and re-laying that rib ,but although I am capable I will only do it as a last resort.

Thank's for the help guy's.
Chris

Newf, it is possible the lug is loose now, it is secured when originally made with a screw from the top of the barrels before the top rib was laid. The bump in the lower rib is an indication that the lug has shifted forward slightly. Mark the lugs position and tap it lightly towards the rear, if it moves the solder joint holding it to the barrels has failed and it needs to be reset