doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Old Stock Repairs

Hi all, this is just for the sake of discussion. How many of you have guns with old repairs to a gunstock and how have they held up?

I have one that was glued and pinned, so far solid.

Just wondering about the rest of you.

All the best!

Greg

I have repaired a few and have a few that were repaired. One with a bad crack behind the lock was epoxied and is holding up fine. You can see the joint, but it is fine and holing up well.

In repairing a crack, if the wood is free from oil, and it can be done to be so, with todays glues, the joint is stronger than the original wood. I have taken hardwood and glued them together making the board wider, purposely broke them and they did not break on the glue line.
This is a lot different from repairs made long ago using hide glues.

David you took the words right out of my mounth about the wood being clean. Also, having a clean break is nice for a solid repair.
And additional reinforcement is always something that should be done, such as hidden pins and braces in the stock head of under a guard bow tang.

Greg, my Remington 1900 has an ugly stock repair. It has a bolt through the stock above the triggers behind the fences. It holds well enough but it's an eyesore. The only reason I keep the stock is because the stock serial # matches the gun and nobody wants to tackle the stock repair needed.

Why not replace the ugly bolt with a hardwood pin and then checker over the top of the pin to conceal the repair.
Steve

I take it that bolt is through the cheeks or action panels? This is a common "repair" that is seen to stop or prevent a splitting head.

Steve is right about pinning and checkering for a way to fix this, or at leat make it better. You would have checkered panels where there shouldn't be. But it is better than a bolt, or a clearly visible pin.

The pin would still be visible through the checkering though.

What I have done to prevent this is, after pinning, actually put in a thin inlay (~1/8") that is the exact shape of the checkering panel that will be made. Then checker it. So the seam of the inlay will fall right where the checkering border is and it is not seen.

It is outside of the checkered area but I think you have a good idea to present to my wood worker and thanks for the idea. I could live with an almost matched walnut plug showing on each side rather than that ugly recessed bolt. The gun is no safe queen but has a LOT of sentiment behind it.

Getting the acraglas or other modern adhesive well into the crack is the trick. I have had best success injecting it with veterinary shot needles. Have not had a failure. Pins can be hidden many times inside inletting and not show outside. Steve

Just about the hardest part of repairing gunstocks is finding a way to clamp it up to get a good glue joint. The most useful thing I've found for thid is a strip cut from an old innertube.Spread the glue on cleaned up joint and wrap it with the rubber strip,pulling the "stretch"out as you go. There is no reason you couldn't use surgical tubeing the same way.
Mike

A tip I would give all repairers of stocks is to wash the squeeze out away with rubbing alcohol. The less you leave on the exterior the easyer the clean up is and the more professional the results.

bill