Mike,
I'd vote for bedding the cheeks at this point since the only way to achieve full contact now would be the removal of more wood. That may not be a viable option. Even a near-perfectly inletted stock can move over time as wood subjected to recoil compresses. Glass will help prevent that compression. In any case, yes,I'd first try to achieve bearing on any vertical edges, such as the cheeks. Then, in a separate session I'd relieve and bed the ends of the tang(s). But, provided there's near 100% contact on the correct recoil absorbing surfaces, "relief" of only a few thou is all that's necessary. A single thickness of electrical tape on the end of the tang can serve as a .010-.015" spacer and not leave a very visible gap when removed.
