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Apr 29th, 2024
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743 |
Best solution I know of for this problem is to trade the Smith for a Lefever. One of the easiest Disassembling & Assembling Doubleguns known to man.
Miller/TN
I Didn't Say Everything I Said, Yogi Berra
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,880 Likes: 16
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,880 Likes: 16 |
Doug,
If I knew you and AmarilloMike were gonna ride me like a rental horse about the case colors on that gun, I'd have given it to Ed Good. I swear I had no choice or fore knowledge...honest...really...seriously...
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,274 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,274 Likes: 1 |
Instead of a pin punch, use a small nail set, it will not bend trust me.
I learn something every day, and a lot of times it's that what I learned the day before was wrong
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,744 Likes: 57
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,744 Likes: 57 |
If you had read my post about using a nail set or a pin punch to fit into the 4-40 hole, you would have read that it is only there to act as a fulcrum point for the notched "V" tool to push it over into the fit.
That spring is made for a 100lbs. pressure and there are not many things made .093 (3/32") that can handle that force without bending or breaking.
The workers to did this at Hunter Arms did it day in and day out and they knew how to do it. There are pictures of them doing so. Since I don't do this everyday I used a method that the late Russ Ruppel told me, and that is with the small hole drilled in the wood.
As to making the wood weak, no such thing in that area.
David
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 150
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 150 |
Make sure you release the top lever before you try this. If you haven't figured it out yet, there is a small plunger that the rib extension depresses as the gun is closed. You can push on this with a small tool and the top lever will be released to a neutral position. Then it takes much less force to align the screw hole.
I am a big fan of the wedge on a string trick and it leaves the stock intact as well as insuring you don't bugger the threads of the top lever pin. There aren't any vises or drills involved and it takes zero effort.
Rob.
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 150
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 150 |
Oh yeah, here is a photo of the hole drilling technique gone awry. 
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114 |
Oh yeah, here is a photo of the hole drilling technique gone awry. Yup-- Murphy's Law prevails- that's why I coat all the internal wood areas with a skin coat of acra-glas before I locate and drill the access hole- but every piece of gunstock wood has its quirks and weak spots, and repairing such damage is possible, but time consuming and expensive--
"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,744 Likes: 57
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,744 Likes: 57 |
The picture with the broken wedge, is from not supporting that area. That is why I recommended putting the lock plate on that side and putting the fixed jaw on the lock instead of the wood. Not a good idea to put the jaw on a slender piece of wood and not think it won't slip off and break or crack this piece.
I went back and just noticed that the broken piece is on the drilled side. The only way the break here could have occurred is that the pin going through the hole was not attached to the fixed jaw and it slipped off. If the pin was long enough, the jaw would not be close to the piece.
Last edited by JDW; 01/22/13 07:52 AM.
David
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114 |
The picture with the broken wedge, is from not supporting that area. That is why I recommended putting the lock plate on that side and putting the fixed jaw on the lock instead of the wood. Not a good idea to put the jaw on a slender piece of wood and not think it won't slip off and break or crack this piece.
I went back and just noticed that the broken piece is on the drilled side. The only way the break here could have occurred is that the pin going through the hole was not attached to the fixed jaw and it slipped off. If the pin was long enough, the jaw would not be close to the piece. Words of wisdom indeed- and I forgot to add that advice- As i deal in LC Smith parts, over time I have both a R frame and a FW frame set of lock plates, stripped of all parts (sold) and from Field grade Smiths- that I use to fill in the open lock area of the stock-against the pressure of the small modified C clamp-- if you don't do this, and just rest the anvil of the C clamp against a bar or metal, which contacts the top and bottom of the inletted area- you are looking at a potential real problem-- Smiths are indeed tricky to re-assemble and they have their quirks--
"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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