doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Cleaning a double rifle

What is the proper way to clean a BPE double rifle after use?
Should you clear the bores with a wire brush, then use Hoppes No9 for getting rid of residue?

After thorough cleaning what oil should be used to keep the bores from rusting?

If you are not shooting the rifle for a long time is there a wax that can be used in the bores to protect them or is occasional oiling the way to go?

BPE, are you using Black powder or smokeless?

For long term storage of the bores, I like RIG

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-ch...-prod31842.aspx

If I am using nitro powder loads I clean with Hoppes and a copper wire brush. Then a light oiling.

If I have been using BP I usually start the cleaning at the range by putting a couple of patches down each bore that has been soaked in a BP solvent. I finish with hot soapy water and a final rinse with clean boiling water, dry completely then oil.
I usually limit the shooting to 20 rounds or less so there isn't a great deal of build up.

Sometimes I will use BP and other times an appropriate nitro
loading.

How have you been cleaning it after BP use?

It's going to be difficult to find a more effective solvent for BP than hot water. For a bore preservative I never use a petroleum based product. One of the many other treatments are better than petro. I use one of the two I use in my muzzleloaders. After a good rinse with boiling water either Bore Butter or my home made lube of 50/50 beeswax and castor oil or mineral oil or bear fat or deer tallow or some other natural oil/fat.

sharps4590 has your solution. I used to experience after rusting in the bores of my flintlocks no matter how thoroughly I cleaned with soaps or detergents and scalding hot water, then dried and oiled. If I ran a patch down the bore a month or so later, it would have a reddish tinge, no matter what gun oil I used to protect it. I think I actually ruined the superb accuracy of my first flintlock from excessive cleaning more than excessive shooting.

Then I read a flier that used to come with tubes of Thompson/Center Natural Lube 1000 Bore Butter. According to them, early black powder shooters never had rusting or corrosion problems until Drake struck oil at Titusville in 1859, and petroleum based lubes replaced the animal fats and vegetable based lubes that were used previously. The instructions said to begin using the Bore Butter as patch or bullet lube after removing all traces of petroleum base oils, and to clean only with hot water. The process was said to be like seasoning a cast iron skillet, and it was important to never use bronze brushes, detergents, solvents, or agressive cleaning that would remove this seasoning. It's not something you can really see like a blackened cast iron skillet. My rifles bores are still shiny and there is no visible build-up on the lands or grooves.

I was reluctant to believe this, but I tried it and cleaned only with hot water. I then dried the bore and warmed the barrel to drive off all traces of moisture. I then protected the bores with the same Natural Lube 1000 patch and bullet lube. At first, I checked often for after rust because I couldn't believe this method could be as good as the thorough scrubbing and oiling I had done for years.

The results were astounding. Now I can clean my flintlocks with this method after deer season and put them away with a coating of Natural Lube 1000, and be confident that the bores will remain rust free until next season. Petroleum based oils or solvents and Black Powder just don't mix.

edit: if you go to Thompson/Center's website much of what I just told you along with the theory behind it can be found in the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

I'm using a new petroleum free product called Froglube on pretty much everything now. Been using it a little less than a year and I'm sold. Quick, easy and it smells good. Google it and also check it out on youtube.

With my BP rifle loads I clean the bor with GoJoe hand cleaner. Comes in several forms, the one I use is a cream without pumice. Has worked well for for alot of years. Sorry cannot tell you which exact one it is as it's in Wis. and I'm in Miss. Just a few patches with it then a couple of dry ones and bore is clean.

If I recall correctly Holland&Holland does not recommend using hot water for cleaning barrels. Theory is the hotter the water the quicker rust surfaces as soon as the heat dried out the bore. I've always used just tap water with no issues with a good fitting jag - I like cotton flannel patches too. I agree a swipe or two with a bristle brush assures getting BP out of the corners. This is more difficult and risky with a ML though. The best thing I was turned onto many years ago at Friendship (NMLRA) was G-96. Outstanding oil, lubricant and preservative.