doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Need Rust Blueing

LeFusil,

Pardon me. If you had said "For some reason Americans got it into their heads that the proper finish for rust blued barrels on English guns was that satin, dull look", it might have been clearer. In any case, I understand you now. Thanks.

SRH

Stan: Maybe one of those camo job guns like one of those benelli's the duck hunters use would be best if you are that worried in the dove field from a brilliant blue job on the barrels of a shotgun?? ;-)

The action of the solution used to rust blue the barrels, causes them to "rust" in a controlled manner.This causes microscopic "pits", which both gives the satin finish and wearability.The final polish is usually with worn 320 grit cloth.A high polish doesn't want to rust,especially if hard metal(like a bolt shroud),sometimes requiring repolishing with new 320.I never tried to get a shiney finish, so I can't say with authority, but a coat of paste wax after normal blue, may do it.
Mike

Yeah buzz,

Many of my friends use them, but I don't care much for it. Probably because I am loathe to use a repeater. I just prefer double guns, and don't like them camo'ed. I own one repeater that is in usable condition, a black 390 that I use for ducks when the conditions are just terrible.

If doves are coming from a particular direction all you have to do is keep the muzzle pointed in that general direction and there will be no reflection. But, when they come from all points of the compass bets are off. I can't tell you the times I have seen gun barrels reflect like a mirror, and actually seen doves turn, at a great distance, and go another direction.

SRH

IME, nitric acid = dull finish.

Bv

Mike,

I polish out to 600 grit quite often.....also have gone to 1000 grit on some......the number of applications generally dictates the darkness, i.e., blue or black, and the grit generally dictates the gloss......this has been my experience, but I use a boiling water rust process, not a sweat box...A) more control...B) not effected by the weather, i.e. humidity, heat, cold...C) better wear quality and durability...D) easier handling and carding...E) better results consistently.........this is my opinion based on experience.......














Best,

That's nice work, Doug. Do you recall what you polished to (grit) on the magazine and barrel in the first photo?

SRH

Thanks Stan, I used 3M P-400 WD as a final grit on that little Marlin .32 in the first picture, but did hit it very lightly just few licks with 3M 600 as a final clean up looking for flaws, which I usually do, then of course the acetone..........

Best,

PA24,
I also use boiling water.Number of applications depends on the base metal,temp, and humidity; but usually 4-5.With the solution I use, it darkens a day or two after oiling.I couldn't find a soft enough wire wheel to suit me for carding; so I use de-oiled(acetone)steel wool. I also apply the solution with a tuft of de-oiled 0000 steel wool. I learned from my German friend Walter Grass and have always been satisfied with wornout 320 grit.Maybe he didn't go finer because to a gunsmith time is money.He said it was pointless to go finer,because of the biteing action of the soultion. Maybe I will try 600 sometime and see for myself.
Mike

Very nice work Doug. Thanks for taking the time to show the pictures. Looks like good careful prep work.