doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion Classic & Custom Single Barreled Sporting Rifles @ doublegunshop.com Small ring Mauser sported conversion calibers

I've seen some 7mmMag barrels converted to 7-08 and 7mmMauser done that way, and it looks terrible.

I stumbled on this one the other night. I am not the seller, nor do I have any interest in it!


http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=336603004

Yes, my intentions are to take a large ring Turk action, which has the small ring barrel shank and have flats milled on the front ring to simulate an octagon shape. Very similar to the picture above. This would leave the front ring no thinner than any other small ring Mauser action due to the fact that the barrel shank is the smaller size.
I did not want to convert to some crazy huge or hi power cartridge. But just wanted to know my limitations. Just since I had heard that a small ring is not any good for anything but lower power cartridges such as a 30/30 or something. I know that can't be fully true. I have a 1930s built Belgian Mauser in 8x57 and that is still in one piece after all these years.

That looks like they went with a 10 or 12-flat instead of an 8 (octagon) in order not to have to cut so much material from the ring.
Probably looks better than an octagon ring if I can imagine what one would end up looking like.

Kind of a 60's custom metal look though to me no matter the # of flats,,I'd prefer the square bridge look.
Classics are always in style.

But everyone is entitled to their own,,that's what custom is all about.
But that's also why resale of your own pet project ideas can be so difficult too.

They can make a nice lightweight rifle. My Wisner metal'd G33/40 "tweaked" Swede in 7x57. Wood remodel by Dean Zollinger.

Small ring as in M96 or small ring as in M98 (G33/40 or Mexicans)?

Years ago Kimber was sporterizing M96's and did a nice job as long as you ordered one in 6.5x55. I did and it's a nice inexpensive back up gun that was very accurate out of the box. However, they also offered them in .308 & 7-08, lots of reports of lug set back.

Brownells has Shilen made barrels for 93&96's in 6.5x55, 7x57 and .250 Savage. they used to have 300 Savage but no longer.

I understand the small ring 98's are fine with standard pressures.

A guy with the handle copper lake has been running some blow up tests on some ratty M93 and M96 Mauser receivers at Cast Boolits in the Military Rifle forum. His loads have started at about book maximum of 60,000 PSI and have worked up in 1 grain increments until the case head was blown. With a couple of the actions he then switch to Alliant 2400 and managed to blow the actions up.
Prior to the used of the 2400 the actions took a terrific amount of punishment without and significant damage. As long as quality cases are used it appears the rifles will take more than any properly loaded ammo will deliver.

The swede mod 46 and 146 were built on Mod 96 actions, in 8x57,9x57,9.3x57,9.3x62, and maybe others.They didn't make any difference between mod.96 and 98 actions in proofing them. I can't speak to the Spanish 93s,I suspect the DWM 95s would be ok.
Mike

From my experience (what�s that worth??) of 30 years gunsmithing and re-barreling rifles, mostly Mausers:
The 93, 94, 95 (Spanish variations) and 96 have the same overall physical characteristics; 1.300 receiver diameter, .980 x 12 TPI, cock on closing.

The 93 , 94 and 95 are almost identical but the 95 has a bolt head that is round where the 93 and 94 had a flat bottom on the bolt head. Variations of these will sometimes have gas ports in the receiver to vent .

The 94 and 96 Swedish are different. The 96 is the action found on full length rifles wherein the 94 is the carbine version. The Swedes are in a class by themselves, the most refined of the pre-98 type Mausers. The 96 has a guide rib on the bolt, made of superior steel, locking notch for bolt handle to engage as a safety measure.

Considerations for the 93 thru 95�s include where they were made, condition, lug setback pre existing. The 93-95�s were made by Loewe, DWM, and other European manufacturers and also made by Oviedo in Spain and several other places.
Not having extensive metallurgical testing facilities, I have relied on my experiences, anecdotal evidence and common sense when choosing calibers.

The Swede Mausers have been built in many calibers that I would never put on a 93-95. I have handled, shot and examined Swede 96�s and 38�s in factory chamberings of 6.5x55, 8x57, 9.5x57, 308 Win. , 9.3x62.
I would not hesitate to barrel a Swede in any of the aforementioned calibers and would also do 22-250, 243 Win, 257 Roberts, 7x57, 7mm-08, 35 Rem, 358 Win. 300 Savage. I have yet to examine a 94-96 Swede with any kind of lug setback. They have excellent steel and are properly heat treated.

Not so for the 93-95�s. I have had actions where the bolt seats were set back, visible after pulling the barrel and inspecting the inside of the receiver. Plus, some of these are dead soft. They have not appeared to be pack hardened like later Mausers; dead soft all the way.

Bottom line with 93�s, 7x57 only.

95�s: European made I would go 7x57, 8x57, 300 Savage, 35 Remington.

The Turk 1903�s are a large ring action with small ring thread for the most part. (most of them anyway but Turks will prove the exception to the rule) They can be soft. The German made seem to be okay but the Ankara made usually are dead soft.

Its not just radial pressure that you have to worry about. Back thrust can cause set back. Which increase headspace and if it continues to grow, eventually head separations and gas venting. Of which the Small Rings don�t have the protection built into the later 98.

Will your 93 have a catastrophic failure (blow up) on you? Most likely not if you are using factory spec ammo or equivalent handloads. Try to hot rod it and you take your life in your hands. But over time, with higher pressur eloads, you will most likely have setback which will create headspace issues. Use some common sense. If you want a 7mm that goes 3000 FPS, buy a 7mm Mag.
The Small Ring Mausers have been and can be built into some very classy little rifles. great project guns to learn how to do stocking etc and usually obtained very reasonably. Each action has to be judged on its own merits. If it�s for you, you go with what you can stand meaning, if it sets back and becomes unserviceable and you can live with that eventuality, go with what you want. But I will stick with my guidelines.

My suggestions for what to do when re-barreling one is as follows
Remove old barrel
Examine receiver for cracks (unlikely) and look at lug seats where bolt lugs rest when the bolt is in and turned into battery. Take a dental pick or similar (no sharp point) and follow the rubbed areas and see if there is a ridge or what seems to be a raised area. This usually indicates set back. If so, I wouldn�t waste any more time. If there is no indication of setback, put some Dykem Blue on the back of the bolt lugs and check for contact of the lugs with the receiver. Lap the lugs until you get 90% contact if they don�t have it.

True the bolt face to ensure equalized support of the cartridge case head.

True the front of the receiver.

Take away as many inconsistencies so that the case head and lugs are fully supported. It equalizes rearward forces which spreads them over a greater area.

Thread, chamber and headspace the barrel to specs. Test fire with factory ammunition and use nothgin that exceeds factory pressure/ ballistics specifications.

Proceed at your own risk.