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It sure looks like the mechanics for the ejectors are in the forend. The forend stays connected when the barrels are removed and bending the forend down, "cocks the ejectors. Here is another picture of the forend.



No tar or feathers from me, not sure if the 1897 is the serial number or not.

The safety lever is on the right side of the frame. In the horizontal position (shown) it is in the "fire" mode. When rotated counterclockwise down, it blocks the firing pins from striking the primers of the cartridges. You can still pull both triggers when the safety is in the down "safe" position, but the safety device acts like an internal "hammer-block" even though pulling the triggers still "fires" both firing pins.

After doing this, you have to "break open" the action to "re-cock" the system.

I imagine this is not something that you would want to do too often, as I think that the internal strikers hitting this safety block, would eventually harm it.




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Hello WildCattle,

Thank you for your response and pictures. A very nice rifle indeed.

I see your safety is on the opposite side. Does it function as mine, as I described?

I know what you mean about the attached forend. It's awkward to get the positions "just right" for replacing the barrels. Is your forend held on with a "push-button" cross-bolt?

Does your rifle have a Greener style cross bolt or some other type of third fastener?

I'm still researching the decorative inlays on my rifle which are "Yellow" and "White". I tested the White inlays, and they are NOT Silver. I haven't determined if they are White Gold, or perhaps Platinum. I hope that a trip to the jewelers will tell.

I've got some loaded ammo from Graf, and dies and bullets are on the way. I can't wait to try this in the Dark Continent of Wisconsin.

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Most interesting fellas, especially the site WildCattle. If either of you take what looks to be the locks or sideplates off the frame, I'd like to see an image.

I've been chasing C. Modé for some time and now additional information is known. I think he may have earlier origins?

On July 25th, 1914 the name changes to C. Mode from House Lefaucheux( Louis Henri Rieger with Peter Laffiteau ) and Maison E. Lefaucheux Chevalier and Dru successors?
Kind Regards,

Raimey
rse

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Hi Buckstix,
As per my post, I don't think it works anymore.
I do have the same pushbutton. The 3rd bite is not a Greener bolt but a doll's head and a flat bolt as can be see on the published picture.
The early loadings involve a 232 grain bullet, switched in 1898 to a 198gr bullet.You should start at 232 grs.
My bores are 8.30/8.0mm (.327/.315) 4 groove. The grooves are very deep indeed. My WWI era bronze bullets measure about 8.28mm i.e 0.326".
If a .323 bullet is used, it should be soft to have a chance to bump up.
Just my $.02!
WC-
Please measure your bores!

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My reading of the site is that rieger-Lefaucheux was part of the C. Mode by 1914, but we don't know when it actually happened.
Unfortunately, I don't have any other Data on Mode.
Good luck with the hunt.
WC-

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The 8 Lebel is the mother of all modern rifle ammos.
You can see that it influenced both the 303BR and the 8x57R (i.e they were copied from it)...
The strange bottle shape comes from the 11mm Gras which was the parent cartridge. The 2 follow ups replaced that shape with the .400 basic... Which does make more sense. The 8x57 is basically the 303 with the Lebel bullet...
WC-

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Originally Posted By: WildCattle
Hi Buckstix,
As per my post, I don't think it works anymore.


Hello WildCattle,

At first, I din't think mine worked either. But when I tested it by firing the firing pins against a hard oak dowell with the barrels removed, thats when I discovered the firing pins did not strike the dowel when the safety was in the down position. It still "clicked", but the ends of the pins did not exit the frame.

Originally Posted By: WildCattle

I do have the same pushbutton. The 3rd bite is not a Greener bolt but a doll's head and a flat bolt as can be see on the published picture.


OK, I see that now.
Originally Posted By: WildCattle


The early loadings involve a 232 grain bullet, switched in 1898 to a 198gr bullet.You should start at 232 grs.
My bores are 8.30/8.0mm (.327/.315) 4 groove. The grooves are very deep indeed. My WWI era bronze bullets measure about 8.28mm i.e 0.326".
If a .323 bullet is used, it should be soft to have a chance to bump up.
Just my $.02!
WC-
Please measure your bores!


Yes, I knew that the 8mm Lebel was the "first" smokeless cartridge. And I'm impressed with its ballistics. I intend to soon do a chamber cast with the throats. When I do, I'll publish my findings.

Thanks again for your info.

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Buckstix,Wildcattle,
I believe you can get .329" bullets(for 8x56R) from GRAF, easy to size to .326-.327".You may be able to use them "as is",if one will enter the neck of a case fired in the same rifle, but not sized.
Mike

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Hawk is showing 329 and .330 with a .035 jacket. I bet I know where they can be drawn down.. laugh

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Given the old barrel steel/iron I would suggest starting with cast and not jacketed bullets.

Page 6 Mould design #98

http://www.neihandtools.com/catalog.html

http://www.bullets-brass.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SS_40608

Last edited by skeettx; 02/08/13 03:26 PM.

USAF RET 1971-95 [Linked Image from jpgbox.com]
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