I'll second 'Wood Bleach' as a method to remove discoloration from the wood.
You can get the oil out out in a couple different ways,,everyone has a favorite. But many times the wood remains at least somewhat discolored.
Wood Bleach (oxalic acid) does a nice job of removing the stains itself (doesn't remove any oil if that's still present).
Mix a couple tbs into a quart of water. Warm that in the microwave for 30 or 40 seconds.
Brush onto the stock. It seems to work for me better if the wood is already wet. Brush the entire stock down with it as it will even up the wood color.
I'll stick the forend wood right into the quart jar,,flipping it end to end after a minute or so to get the entire surface worked over.
Sometimes the head of the butt stock fits in there too and will get a soaking that way first before the entire stock gets brushed down.
Rinse down the wood afterwards with warm water blot it dry and let it dry completely on it's own.
Force drying it w/a torch doesn't really accomplish much , you still have to let it hang and completely dry for a time.
But you might char the edges of the inlet w/a torch if you're not careful.
FWIW, you don't need anything but plain alcohol to mix up a whiting paste. Acetone and other high powered sovents aren't needed. They do/did their job is the soaking tank.
They evaporate so fast from the surface, they are doing little if nothing in this next process to draw the oil out.
It's the slow, long drawing & absorbsion work of the whiting that is doing the work now.
The liquid used to make the paste is only that,,something to make it up, get it onto the stock and then dry hard in a reasonably short period of time.
The whiting powder crust on the wood works over a period of several days. The liquid used to make the paste to be able to get it on the wood is (long) gone,,usually in a few minutes if not seconds after the paste is brushed onto the wood.
