doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Loesche drilling

I'm fairly confident that units were metric and might account from some difference?:



Schrot/Shot


Geschoss/Bullet





From Axel's contribution:

http://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=213433#Post213433

Kind Regards,

Raimey
rse

Excerpt from page 231.

Fuzzy, but I read it and could be wrong on all:

12/1 - 18.6mm?

12 - 18.52mm

13/1 - 18.26mm

13 - 18.02 mm

14/1 - 17.

14 - 17.6mm

15/1 - 17.4mm

15 - 17.2mm

16/1 - 16,29mm?

16 - 16.51mm?

17/1 - 16.64mm?

17 - 16.45mm

Kind Regards,

Raimey
rse

Haven't run the numbers but "Modern Breechloaders" gives

12 - 0,729" - 0,720"

13 - 0,710" - 0,700"

14 - 0,693" - 0,690" - 0,680"

15 - 0,677" - 0,670"

16 - 0,622" - 0,660" - 0,650"

17 - 0,649" - 0,640"

If I remember correctly, both the Austrian and Brits used a solid projectile on the 1st pass and shot later if the tube was destined to be a scattergun. Not sure when or if the Brits ceased.

Kind Regards,

Raimey
rse

Thanks Der. That's how they work. Seems quite awkward to have to pull my hands either off the forearm or off the grip to get my thumb behind the front trigger to set it, but I guess that's the way it was built unless it is supposed to set with a lot less forward pressure than it does now. I wonder how the front trigger can be safely unset? The gold cocking indicator pin for the left barrel does not come up like the other two, and it looks like the tip of the firing pin is missing. Incidentally, one of the reasons I sold my Valmet was in one day sending a load of No. 4 lead at a deer and then whistling a 165 gr. Core-Lokt .30 cal. at a pheasant!

Thanks Miller for the great explanation of the plug gage concept.

Hal,
It shouldn't take that much pressure to set it,maybe it is adjusted so that it almost doesn't engage.I would try readjusting it and see if that works(note the adjustment screw doesn't have anything to do with the spring tension,only the engagement). I would set it with the thumb of the shooting hand.To unset it, the safest way is to open the gun and pull the trigger with it open.Since the safety doesn't affect the set trigger, it can be left on "safe".

Raimey;
As you said a lot of those figures were too fuzzy to read for certain. On some that I could they seemed to be an exact metric conversion from the English tables. On those you put a ? after; 12/1 should be 18.8, 16/1 is 16.99/17.0, 16 = 16.81, & 17/1 16.64/65. These figures are derived from using the English numbers & converting. Those with double readings are dependant on exactly when rounding is done. Slight variations can of course occur on the exact diameter used for a 1 gauge ball. I found it necessary to carry this to 6 decimal places & then as a sorts middle of the road use 1.669285" as the basis. Using this number every size on the English tables fits to the nearest .001" which is good enough for me. I have tried them in metric but this number would convert to 42.399839mm.
It is noted that the volume of a ball this size is very slightly less than that given for 1 lb of pure lead. Perhaps when these tables originated well back into the 1800's a method of forming a pound of lead into a ball was used which gave it a slight compression. What is a bit amazing to me though is that even though all this had to be done by "Hand" & involves cubes & cube roots is that all these years later I can set down with a pocket calculator & fit it "Exactly" to that .001".

Der is the top (slotted for screwdriver I assume) of the trigger adjustment screw supposed to protrude a bit or always lie below the surface? The threaded hole is extremely small and I would have to try and bend my smallest screwdriver or perhaps grind down a tiny Allen wrench to get in there. Perhaps the screw is missing as I can drop a wire a full 1/4" down the hole before it bottoms out.

I'm not sure, but "bascule" seems to be the same as what we would call the convex outer radius of the hinge or knuckle where met by the concave surface of the forearm iron.

Hal,
The screw should be above the surface and in my experience is not threaded to the end, so it can't be screwed below the surface.It seems that yours is missing(if you are lucky) or twisted off below the surface(if you aren't).A proper screw above the surface can be turned by a thin blade screw driver.Your problem reaching the screw seems to be becaues it is missing or broken.If it is missing, a new one can be turned in. If it is broken off, the trigger plate will have to be removed and disassembled to remove the broken piece.I believe New England Custom Guns can help you with this, or maybe Turnbull.
Mike

Thanks. These guns are so expensive to work on I don't think the owner would be willing to put over $1,000 into it for a replacement forearm and repair of the set trigger/cocking indicator mechanism. What is this Loesche worth in its present condition?

Hal,
I'm sorry,I hardly ever give an estimate of the value of someone elses gun, even if I can hold it in my own hands. In this case, I know the gun has some problems.If you can't do the work to repair it,the value will be drasticaly affected.
Mike