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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,278 Likes: 11
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,278 Likes: 11 |
I have no idea just what sodium citrate is but my first guess would be a mild acid. That + case colors = adios color.
Like was said before, mixing up home brews of ots products can be problematic to the point of deadly. I'm sure you had something special in mind but well .......... I'm trying to be nice so please don't do that any more.
If you want to strip any laq and most enamels simple acetone will do that w/out harming anything. Carb cleaner is not something I've ever considered sticking gun parts in - or will. If you have some monster ugly deposits the military bore cleaner will knock free anything I've seen.
But then, you are all free to innovate any way you care to. Your guns, your life, have fun
and have a day
Dr.WtS
Dr.WtS
Mysteries of the Cosmos Unlocked
available by subscription
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,880 Likes: 16
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,880 Likes: 16 |
Carburetor cleaner used to be methylene chloride. The newer stuff probably doesn't have chlorinated solvents.
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 369 Likes: 3
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 369 Likes: 3 |
The reason for the soak is the inside was extremely rusty.
Like the stock had not been off and the insides cleaned and oiled in 50 years.
AIN'T MUCH A MAN CAN'T FIX
WITH SEVEN HUNDRED DOLLARS AND A THIRTY OUGHT SIX
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 277 Likes: 5
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 277 Likes: 5 |
Just a word of caution, some of the carburetor dips contain Oxalic acid which will do a good job of removing CCH. Always read the list of ingredients or the MSDS prior to using.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,799 Likes: 777
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,799 Likes: 777 |
Carburetor cleaner used to be methylene chloride. The newer stuff probably doesn't have chlorinated solvents. The auto parts store variety will be the extra safe stuff-check with your jobber for the good stuff. I have a many year old can of GM X33. I suppose I'll be seeing a suited HAZ-MAT team in the near future, now that I've confessed. Best, Ted
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 76 Likes: 3
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 76 Likes: 3 |
Reread Ted's advice, he is right on.
Never mix chemicals together, no matter how seemingly safe. I would suspect that the surfactants in Simple Green caused a reaction between one or two raw materials in the different solvent type products used. For example, you can make phosgene gas by mixing Clorax with some liquid soaps and in the right amounts, it can kill you.
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,598
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,598 |
Ken Hurst used to soak CCH parts in toilet bowl cleaner, then rub them down with with a light pad. It produced that light gray finish which some call a "French Gray". The case colors have been neutralized. The colors are only a few atoms thick. http://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbt...=true#Post39899Fake CCH is usually done with cold blue and iodine. Though all sorts of potions have been used. Pete
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 520
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 520 |
Never mix chemicals together, no matter how seemingly safe. Good thing there's no "Ed's Red" fans on this site or they would likely riot. I totally agree with you however.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,880 Likes: 16
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,880 Likes: 16 |
The reason for the soak is the inside was extremely rusty.
Like the stock had not been off and the insides cleaned and oiled in 50 years.
I think anything that would remove rust would very likely remove the casehardening colors and blueing, since rust and the colors are of similar composition.
Last edited by Chuck H; 02/06/14 01:54 PM.
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 779 Likes: 38
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 779 Likes: 38 |
I concur with all the above, don't mix chemicals unless you or someone you trust has done some exhaustive tests.
My formula for cleaning up action parts, irrespective of how dirty they are is a 10 minute boil in dishwasher liquid solution, same concentration as it recommends for really grubby dishes.
If it doesn't get all the crud off in one go, I rinse and give it another turn.
I then work over very gently with a Dremel with wire brush to remove loose rust, avoiding all areas with original finish.
This has never damaged the fragile colours under the crud and has produced several myrical results on guns thought too far gone to restore.
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