Getting it red hot in a hurry is the idea so you don't damage the bluing on the frame.
Yes it bends easily when red,,steel does that,, and that's also the idea. No chance of the recv'r slipping in the vise by putting a lot of un-necessary pressure on the shank trying to bend it cold. A #2 tip works well. Works good for welding in markings /lettering.
"...we are talking about cylindrical threaded components here..."
Why yes we are imagine that,, and to think we heated to red about 1/2" or less of the length of that piece of threaded (on each end) round stock that's slightly bigger in dia than a common pencil ,, and then bent it a couple degrees.
Wow, Panic Alert,, call Engineering Dept before proceeding.
You can make a big project out of it,,or not.
No damage to to gun, or componet parts during the fix or later. I saw many of those guns later as they returned for strip downs & cleanings.
You can just as well give the shank a wack or two with a heavy hammer over a solid support to bend it cold while in place. Most probably what the factory did, but there's the chance the end threaded into the frame will bend and/or loosen on you doing it like that. Not having replacements at hand makes the hot bend a better choice for the parts starved.
It's not a big deal. I've probably done 30 to 40 of them in the last 40+ yrs between 12's and 97's. Even a couple 42's.
I learned it from other gunsmith(s) who learned it somewhere else,,,
If you can't heat that stock shank up to red w/o melting it in half, don't play w/the torch.
No I don't have any certification in anything that I can think of.
