Frame,,rec'vr,,you got it. That big part.,,the action w/o the parts.
Your method to bend the shank sounds OkeyDokey. A lot of fussing, but have at it.
Doing it that way, I'd mark the shank for 12 o'clock and back the new upward bend up to 11 or so.
When you put it back in the frame it'll tighten in a bit further than the original.
Unless you want some RH cast off too along with less drop.
If the bend isn't enough,,or too much, take it back out and do it over again & hope that it screws back in w/o over clocking again.
..or just heat it red in a small area back from the frame so you don't damage the bluing and bend it up w/a pliers.
Allow for some extra stock re-inletting if you go for the cast off and to be truthfull it doesn't look very good done this way (cast off/cast on).
But you can do a very tiny amt and get away with it w/most factory fitted stocks.
Better to restock and make the cast adjustment starting at about the nose in the new stock so it doesn't look awkward at the frame/stock juncture.
I don't have a MIG,,don't know Willie.
I did fine w/a TIG when I had access to one to use in my work. An ancient machine of it's time but was all new to me.
Teach yourself as you stepped off that pickleboat was the learning method.
No one showed you (much of) anything in the gun trades for fear of loosing their job to you. 'Figure it out yourself kid'.
A few kind souls would be helpful, but they were a very few.
I get along w/ small tank acetylene set just fine now. Heat when needed like the above small jobs or small welding like filling pits or lettering & small alterations, restorations ect.
I use it all the time for hardsoldering too.
