doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com CZHuglu SXS triggers?

I have been doing a lot of googling/reading about CZ Bob Whites and Ringnecks in 28 and .410 and have seen several comments about the trigger pulls needing correction, especially on the Bob Whites.
I have given up on the idea of finding a Yildiz .410 double out here in Oregon, leaving me looking hard at CZ. I'm figuring in the cost of having choke tubes installed on the CZ if I go with .410, but wondered if I would be wise to budget some cash for triggers being made light and even.
Any thoughts/experience?
(Also asked this at SGW)

I read elsewhere that if you get a CZ with really heavy pulls, they'll lighten them to the weight of the gun. That's still heavy for a lot of people, but if they're crisp, that's also OK with a lot of people.

I paid $75 to a local gunsmith to lighten the trigger pulls on my Bob White 28. I'd definitely have it done. My triggers were stiffer than a wedding.... Gil

Well, here's another approach to the question. What do the shotgunners here think is the ideal trigger weight for an upland gun?

Bill-I have noticed that shotguns are easier for me to shoot well when they have good triggers...similar to rifles. I have guns with crisp triggers in the 3 to 5 pound range that are great to shoot. One of them is an 1891 Francotte that has absolutely stunning 3-1/2 and 4-1/2 pound triggers. If triggers are very heavy, they can make me balk at the pull. Part of it is whatever you get used to, and whether all your guns have similar triggers...

Mike

I agree with Mike about good triggers. I cannot tolerate heavy trigger pulls on a shotgun, and don't. I call heavy anything over 4 1/2 #. If they don't meet that standard, I work on them until they do. My one exception is a .410 S x S that was a gift from my cousin. It is hopeless. 6-7# is the best it can have and still be safe. Piece of junk, but it will still bring down barn swallows.

As to what Larry said, concerning CZ lightening pulls to the weight of the gun. I don't doubt that is their policy, but what a crock. A really good trigger, for me, is going to be in the 3 to 3 1/2# range, regardless of how heavy the gun is. My sub 5# .410's triggers are now in the 3 to 4 # range, my 9# Perazzi, the same. Weight of the gun has nothing to do with what the trigger pull weight should be. One of my pet peeves concerning S x S double triggers is the idea that the front trigger should be lighter than the rear. There is no good reason for this, either.

SRH

Michael McIntosh has a good chapter on triggers ("A Toast to the Trigger") in his book, "Shotguns and Shooting". He refers to the "traditional rule" of optimum trigger pull being half the weight of the gun. But he also refers to a heavy target gun he owns with #3 pulls as feeling just right.

The reason he gives for the front trigger (he actually refers to "the first sear", which thus covers single triggers . . . except how do you know which sear is first if it's a selective trigger?) as being lighter than the rear trigger is that if your second sear is set too light, recoil from the first shot may result in the gun doubling.

Thanks guys. Ordered McIntosh's book. Should have owned it years ago.

Why are double guns that have double triggers or a selective trigger made with different trigger pulls?
danc

The rear trigger is usually a pound heavier because the angle of the rear trigger gives it a leverage advantage that requires the extra pound to make them feel the same. Not sure about single trigger, probably just a flash in the pan new fangled solution to a problem that doesn't exist. MKII