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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2011
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I have gotten ahold of a set of orphaned Belgian Laminated/twist SxS barrels that are unusually long (36") and in unusually good shape.
I build muzzleloaders and what I would really like to do is separate them and use the individual tubes to make 2 very late flint period shotgun barrels. Naturally the ribs and lug are soft soldered and no issue, however, being brazed (?, is that what they called it then? lol) at the breech I'm concerned about working with that. The exact metals being involved being an unknown, I'm not sure if I bring it up hot enough (~1400F) to melt the brazing metal if I might weaken or embrittle the tubes in some way. I really don't think so as the tubes were certainly formed at a higher temp than that, but it never hurts to ask.
Hopefully someone here has experience with this and can offer advice?
Last edited by Shane T; 05/29/14 11:17 AM.
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,694 Likes: 225 |
Why not saw apart and use a lathe to clean up the cut site? Also, for a muzzle loader, will you be cutting the chamber off?? Will you be using some of the back end of the old action for threading for the chamber plug? Lots of questions, sorry 
Last edited by skeettx; 05/29/14 01:45 PM.
USAF RET 1971-95 ![[Linked Image from jpgbox.com]](http://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/57865_80x60.jpg)
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
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They have already been heated to brazing temperature at least once, more than likely in a forge fire, so I don't see why heating them once more to separate them will hurt. Just don't use any more heat than necessary.
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2013
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Hi Shane T
I just thought I should mention that to re run a brazed joint can be notoriously difficult because it will usually require more heat to be applied than when making the joint first time around. And heating a vintage twist barrel set to red heat if it has been truly Brazed (Brass/silver mix as the jointing medium) is not the way to treat them. Parting the barrels using a thin bladed metal saw is a cooler and far safer way of parting the barrels.
The only lessons in my life I truly did learn from where the ones I paid for!
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
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Don't forget that when a set of barrels are joined for a double they are usually "Jointed" in to one another, IE they had flats filed where they join so the wall of each barrel is actually thinner on the inside than the rest of the way around. They are thus somewhat dependant on the fit of the other barrel to reinforce them at that point. Any amount of metal you remove as in sawing is going to reduce that thickness even more.
Why not leave them intact & do a Really Great project A Flint Double. Just a thought.
Miller/TN
I Didn't Say Everything I Said, Yogi Berra
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,971 Likes: 103 |
Don't forget that when a set of barrels are joined for a double they are usually "Jointed" in to one another, IE they had flats filed where they join so the wall of each barrel is actually thinner on the inside than the rest of the way around. They are thus somewhat dependant on the fit of the other barrel to reinforce them at that point. Any amount of metal you remove as in sawing is going to reduce that thickness even more.
Why not leave them intact & do a Really Great project A Flint Double. Just a thought. Pay special attention to what Miller said. He is absolutely correct. It most likely has a dovetailed lump and separating them by any means will result in significantly weaker tubes.
John McCain is my war hero.
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
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What a wonderful SxS those barrels would make!
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