doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Barrel rust blue preparation/polishing

I've started prepping my first set of practice barrels I picked up for $10. A few questions about prepping and polishing:

There are tiny rust pits on the exterior. Should those be removed by wet sanding? I've started with 180 grit and the spots are much better. I'm wondering if I should drop down to 100 grit, or stay the course and just know that it takes a long time to wear that stuff down. At what point would someone use a draw file?

I have been using 6" strokes. Is that too long? Should I make long strokes while using the heavier grit, or is it okay to focus more aggressively on the small spotted places. Does it matter? I was going to make sure to use consistent strokes when I got to the finer polishing stages.

Do I need to cross sand when I move up in grit? Larry Potter did on a rifle barrel, but that was easy for him since there wasn't a rib in the way?

Thanks for the responses!

A few points.

First, about the initial prep for barrels in rough shape. You can either file of sand the pits, depending on depth and location. In areas where the barrel is thicker and pits are larger, I opt for the file first, switching to sandpaper when the pit is almost gone. If the barrel is really pitted, I'll place them in a shallow tray with water covering them so the water action removes the residue with each stroke, it's easier to see progress that way and saves on sandpaper.

Initial stroke length is not so important, it becomes more so in the last two grits, the last one especially, as even 320 can leave swirls if the strokes are not straight. Cross strokes are used in the coarser grits, they do aid in pit removal.

Focus on the spotted areas is ok, but if you cross sand make sure you blend the areas in before you move up in grit. Never move up until the mark is gone.

On really rough areas I sometime start with 80 grit, (spot areas) and in extreme cases, 46. At that grit, the file is an option, make sure to finish with a fine one and when switching to paper, remove all file marks with the first grit.

Thank you, Ken. Exactly the info I was hoping to receive. Very helpful.

One more question - I don't think this barrel will need a file, but if it did what would you recommend to use? My tool collection is not real heavy in the file department.

Kens advice is good. I usually start with 220 Wet or dry on a rough barrel, UNLESS it needs filing, Then I go to 420 and finish up with Scotchpad medium type stuff. I dont like to go finer as I think it makes the finish too bright and not as they were when orignally finished.

Well, most of mine, and I have dozens, were picked up for pennies at garage sales and flea markets. For the most basic needs, you can get by with an inexpensive needle file set. You'll find that a larger selection comes in handy, even the larger "Bastard" files. Mostly, you'll end up using the medium and fine ones. Here's a couple of file tips: Don't store them piled together so they bang against one another when you rummage through your collection. I use an old silverware set box to keep mine organized. Second, get a piece of copper pipe, split one end and flare it out like a spatula. Use that to clean you files, it works much better than a wire file card.

If you intend to use a file on barrels it is a must that you chalk it well first otherwise it will pick up filings that clog the file and leave score lines in the metal, and the softer the metal the deeper the scoring will be. Better still fix with adhesive wet and dry paper of various grades to lengths of hard wood this not prone to clogging and leaves a far better finish.

By changing direction of the polishing,you can tell much better when to go to the next finer grit, but always finish parallel to the barrel.I like to finish with worn 320 grit.Don't be afraid to work "buggers"
with a swiss file, but "fair it in" to the adjacent surfaces.You can use a file card to clean the file quickly, but the advice to use the copper(although I use a cartridge case with the neck flatened)to clean out the "pins"is very good. It is heart breaking to almost finish and scratch the surface,chalking is also good advice.
Mike

Chalk the barrel or the file - or both?

Chalk the file.

How are you going to card the barrels?

I'm in the process of doing nine sets right now, a mix of modern steel, Damascus, and Twist.

Steel wool was my plan, although I have a high speed bench grinder.