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Joined: May 2007
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Boxlock
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Boxlock

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Old Joe,

I would not recommend muriatic acid, it's action is pretty severe. Somewhat counter intuitively in lower concentrations it produces a "rougher" finish than does the concentrate, giving a pitted effect.

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Eug

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Sidelock
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Agree with OB and CH on boiling water not being hot enough to have any effect on steel heat treat.

Two additional thoughts. The dark color in the engraving is likely "dirt." So, soap/solvent cleaning with a mechanical scrub may be effective. Clean engraving on a "coin" finished receiver doesn't show up well. New guns with fine line engraving and coin/grey finish are sometimes "inked" to make the engraving show. Take care how thoroughly you clean the engraving. I doubt that there is any damaging corrosion going on in the bottoms of the engraving cuts.

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Sidelock
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Order your Kroil direct from the manufacturer. A gallon will cost you $32 and you get a free can of the spray. A half pint. from Brownells is $12.

Great company and good products. I bought a gallon about 8 years ago and still have half.

http://www.kanolabs.com/


My problem lies in reconciling my gross habits with my net income.
- Errol Flynn
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Get yourself some solid copper wire, like that used for household wiring [Romex] of 14~18 gauge. Strip the insulation off of one strand or just use the ground wire, cut it at a long angle with a pair of diagonal cutters. Use the fresh cut end as your 'pick' or tool along with some Kleen Bore Formulae 3 to remove the rust. If it gets worn too smooth or rounded, just nip a small increment from its end to 'resharpen'. The Formulae 3 will penetrate wonderfully and loosen the rust as well as prevent future rusting and the copper 'tool' will not scratch a thing nor harm the engraving. It will be tedious work, but you should only need do it once. Do not be afraid to bear down or be agressive with the wire's end, you cannot hurt anything, metal wise. You could put a gouge in the wood though if you slip so pay attention. Use a piece of wire long enough to be comfortable held in your hand and bend the last 1/2 " 90 degrees or down for the working end if it makes it easier for you to use it that way.

For the best thing to re-oil or wipe down engraved surfaces, get a piece of real lamb's wool leather that has been clipped close. There is simply nothing more effective to insure you get a coat of oil on and into the engraving. A small piece will last you a lifetime. I have one that is roughly 4"x6" that has been in use for 40+ years and if anything it is better now than when first put in service.

Hope something here helps you out.

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Sidelock
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Yhe dark color in the engraving is most likely the remains of the original color case job. Once the color is worn off or mechanically removed, there is still remenants of the color left in the cuts. FWIW, Ken



Ken Hurst
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If you want to remove rust and the part is heavily rusted try "Evaporust". It removes rust better than anything I have ever seen. It is positively amazing. It also removes anything akin to rust like bluing.
If you have a heavily rusted receiver or part you think is beyond help give it a try. I used it on an LC Smith that had been on a garage shelf for 30 years. I tried it instead of scrapping it. My brother now has the gun back in use after a reblue. It looks almost as good as it did when he got it in 1956.
It is made in Minnesota I think. Midway sells it for about $30 per gallon. Biodegradable and non toxic.


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Old Joe Offline OP
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Thank you everyone for your replies. I have many ideas now and need to experiment to see how it works out.

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