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#401862 04/27/15 01:07 AM
Joined: Aug 2013
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Sidelock
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Frog lube? I have used it in the past I did find that the CLP worked better than the cleaner for cleaning. I thought it was kinda expensive as I have been making my own Ed's Red for a while so I quit using it. The testing done rates Frog Lube at near the top for many of the tests. I decided to use up some I had left and damn it smells nice and even softens your hands and you can even eat the stuff. All my SXS" are old and I was thinking I should not be cheap when it comes to caring for them and the health benefits!!!
Anyone else like the Frog Lube?


AIN'T MUCH A MAN CAN'T FIX
WITH SEVEN HUNDRED DOLLARS AND A THIRTY OUGHT SIX
Joined: Feb 2002
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Sidelock
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Your money, your choice. Ballistol was used on wounds in WW I for crying out loud, so if Frog Lube on your hands turns you on, have at it. Best corrosion test I ever saw, WD-40 and G-66 (predecessor of G-96) beat everything else hands down. For lubrication, just about any decent oil will do. Life on a gun is easy for oil. As long as I can get RemOil and/or Hoppes at WalMart I am not about to cook up some homebrew like Ed's Red. I have used it, and I know what's in it, and I don't like it.
In my opinion oil and/or CLPs is one of THE most overthought subjects on gun forums. Oil is also #1 on motorcycle forums.

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Blasphemy!!!


Brian
LTC, USA Ret.
NRA Patron Member
AHFGCA Life Member
USPSA Life Member


Joined: Apr 2005
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Joined: Apr 2005
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If you guys bought every cleanser that you guys market, you would have no money and no time to shoot.
It's all a sales pitch to part you from your money, buy what is locally available and use it . Job done.

Joined: Jan 2003
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+1!
Salopian nailed it!
I use Hoppe's #9, the smell just evokes such pleaseant memories and Birchwood Casey 'Sheath' protectant and that's it.-Dick

Joined: Mar 2011
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Joined: Mar 2011
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Frog Lube is available locally through a large brown truck which drops it off on my porch. This saves me from driving to a large box store to buy the cheapest oil available. For the few pennies per application than the cheapest oil available, I get better protection for my guns which cost me more than a few pennies. And to think the expression "pennywise and pound foolish" came from across the Big Pond. wink

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Ed's red should be used for one thing only, and that's cleaning bores and choke tubes. That's all it was ever meant for. Leave it off the rest of your shotgun!

I may be wrong, but I believe Ed's Red was the brainchild of a Sporting Clay shooter who realized the problem of plastic wad fouling and the difficulty of removing it with conventional bore solvents. The acetone component in ER breaks it down and gets it out, and the atf component works on the carbon and powder fouling.

Works great for high-volume shooters.
JR


Be strong, be of good courage.
God bless America, long live the Republic.
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Joined: Feb 2002
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Penny wise and pound foolish huh? Well, Frog Lube reminds me of that Geico Commercial, "Stupid rich".
WD-40 gets the fouling out of my bore with just a little soak time. I have no doubt acetone will do it too, but what's the deal with transmission fluid et al?

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Penny wise and pound foolish.....Hmmmm.

I prefer to spend what is a relatively small amount of money compared to that which I have invested in guns, ammo, dogs, gear, hunting property, travel etc in the most effective lubricant/protection I can figure out. And the best choices out that, near as I can determine for my issues, which are primarily protection, are Eezox and Froglube.

Because Froglube is easy to buy near me and Eezox not so much, I'm currently using Froglube.

And it makes a nice minty topping on ice cream too!


The world cries out for such: he is needed & needed badly- the man who can carry a message to Garcia
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Transmission fluid is a very high detergent, multi-vis oil, on the order of 5W10. Once the acetone softens up the plastic, the ATF gets behind it, and gets it moving.
WD-40 actually does the same thing. WD-40 is not a lubricant, and the carriers in it will evaporate the light components of modern oils, leaving heavier components that then turn to a varnish.
Don't use WD-40 and oil together. A light smear of blued surfaces with a cloth that has a bit of WD-40 on it may be the best rust preventative in existance.

Best,
Ted

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