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Forums10
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Jul 28th, 2025
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 495 Likes: 71
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 495 Likes: 71 |
Sorry Mike, didn't work! Good idea that I've seen done with thin leather strips glued in there too.
Let me approach this a different way. The source of the problem is the barrel stop. I'm confident if it was tight in the knuckle the side to side play would be repaired.
The gun is a Miroku Mdl F SL. A close copy of H&H and a close cousin to Browning's BSS sidelock. Anyone know how to remove the barrel stop? It appears that it is retained by the hinge pin.
Thanks again!
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9 |
Jack knows what he is doing, do you know more?
bill
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 495 Likes: 71
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 495 Likes: 71 |
Well Bill let's start here. I am not the one(s) who dissed Mr Rowe's methods. I'm sure he knows what he's doing. His repair is not tightening the barrel stop now is it? Please read the thread. Can you answer my question about the barrel stop?
Chief
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,245 Likes: 423
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,245 Likes: 423 |
I pointed out I was uncomfortable with Jack's repair method.
I don't think I'd be looking at removing the hinge pin.
Out there doing it best I can.
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 495 Likes: 71
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 495 Likes: 71 |
OK CZ, I will admit to being a bit taken aback by it myself. I think that it as accepted practice to take a few simple tools and "adjust"a gun IF for no other reason than economic expedience. Think about that the next time you drop your pride and joy off at the 'smith's!
Rest assured that nothing is getting taken apart until a definite, correct course of action is made.
Thanks!
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,245 Likes: 423
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,245 Likes: 423 |
What is correct?
What works?
What you like?
What you wish for?
What looks good to you?
An opinion from someone you admire or respect?
It's a fore end with some tolerance issues.
Or is it an action with some tolerance issues?
Is it both?
How many angels can set on the head of a pin?
If you say to a gunsmith, "I don't like this wiggly fore end, Fix it." Would you care at that moment which end he worked on?
Out there doing it best I can.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,308 Likes: 615
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,308 Likes: 615 |
I'm not 100% sure I understand your problem. It sounds like the extractor cam or barrel stop as you refer to it is loose in the knuckle. Is yours not screwed in? Many of them are, some are not.
If it is fit into a slot and loose in the slot it would need to be removed, built up via TIG welding and refit. The barrel stop should have no relationship to how tight your fore end is. If the fore end is loose on the knuckle it needs to be pushed further back towards the breech face. To do this the fore arm lug needs to be either moved back(they often become loose and are not put back in the proper spot), or built up again via careful Tig welding. Just because you can not move the fore end for and aft does not mean it is tight enough. I hope this helps a bit.
Steve
Firearms imports, consignments ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/Ez9oz9Rl.jpg)
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 495 Likes: 71
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 495 Likes: 71 |
Thanks for coming in SKB!
Yes the cam/stop is loose in the knuckle, there is no obvious, visible screw as I have seen on my other SXS. This one is set into a round hole. A slot would be much easier, slip a shim in each side and test my theory.
The fit of the cam to the slot in the FE iron is good, rough measured clearance is .003". The lateral play in the FE iron/action is close to .012" determined by placing a feeler gauge alongside the FE iron and moving it laterally with the gun assembled.
The FE seems tight to the knuckle, no visible or palpable play for and aft.
The fit of the FE iron to the FE lug is also acceptable, some slight, very slight side to side play, no vertical play.
The gun passes the acceptable field test for on face, FE off no discernible play, no visible gaps, dollar bill test...
It appears to me that the cam has some bearing on the lateral play of the FE iron at the knuckle.
It certainly helps more than a bit, thanks!
Chief
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 495 Likes: 71
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 495 Likes: 71 |
CZ, in order;
Working as designed.
Most things, until they don't.
Generally pleasant, generally.
I want it all, of course!
Leggy blondes with the occasional red head.
Certainly.
That sir, is the question.
Maybe.
As many as you like to think can.
Yes, yes I would.
Cheers!
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 14,447 Likes: 278
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 14,447 Likes: 278 |
"Soft metal can be moved." This is a basic of machine work. The tools are hammers, punches and files. All of this tig welding and filing is only an expensive cure for a simple problem. Jack Rowe is not perfect, but he is mostly right. By the way, most shotgun parts are "soft metal" that can be moved with ease. To do things the "proper way" is very expensive and not neccesary for using shotguns.
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