JC-
I just went to Waterlox.com, clicked on "how to buy Waterlox", chose the state of MA, and got dozens of locations. You can also order online, but it looks like it will be convenient for you to shop in a store.
There are 2 products. The Sealer is water-thin and clear. If you've used Watco or Deft Danish oil, Formby's Tung oil or Permalyn sealer, it's very similar but somewhat superior, IMO. I like the tack time, cure time and incredible durability of very thinly built-up Waterlox sealer. Like virtually any clear, transparent liquid finish, once you've achieved the minimal build-up required for true impermeability, it WILL shine if polished. Just like the others, you'll need to control the gloss by the time-honored rub-out with rottenstone. But I find the fast, extremely hard cure more forgiving than the others.
I use only light-colored, highly figured CA English walnut for my own stocks which is why I've come to prefer the "Original Satin Finish." It's thicker, more like TruOil or ProCustom oil, but that's fine. I simply cut the first 2-3 coats 50% with mineral spirits as well as the first 2-3 wet sands with 320. Once I have complete fill, I use it full strength, but sparingly of course. The stain sheen comes by virtue of added flatteners, enough so the oil is murky, not transparent. Medium-light and/or highly-figured wood is very tolerant of this cloudiness. Very dark, and especially dark, unfigured wood may finish looking cloudy. As much as we tout "low gloss, satin oil" finishes, I think dark, figured walnut benefits from a slightly higher shine than satin. High gloss usually connotes a thick, plastic-like top coat which many of us object to. But high luster doesn't have to equate to high build-up.
best, Mike
