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Joined: Feb 2011
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Sidelock
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The Birchwood Casy stock sheen and conditioner works great for dulling down a glossy Tru-oil finish enough to make it very attractive.


B.Dudley
keith #413736 08/07/15 06:48 PM
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Wine bars and amateur winos sometimes use nitrogen in partially used containers to displace oxygen so the wine keeps better.

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Regarding the Tru Oil drying too fast, you can spread it quickly with a rag or the fat part of your hand. Thinning with linseed will help but soffen the final finish in proportion to how much you add. Maybe try just a little. Agree on the BC stock sheen and conditioner to cut the shine more than rottenstone. I Like the r-stone sheen myself.

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Another question. If I want to use Behlen Blood Red stain, when do I apply it? After dry sanding the stock or after the first few diluted applications of Tru-oil to fill the bores? Also, at what stage should the checkered areas be stained? Thanks, Patrick.

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Steven Dodd Hughes (SDH) has a tutorial on this site about applying Behlen stain after filling pores. It should be in the new DIY section.

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As to the question about whiskering,keep doing it until no more rise.
Mike

Last edited by Der Ami; 08/08/15 03:20 PM.
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Thank you Mike.

Simple as I should have guessed.

Does it make a difference where in the sanding regime the "whiskering" occurs? That is, 'sand at 220, whisker, resand at 220, rewhisker, etc.' or 'sand at 220, whisker, sand at 400, rewhisker, etc.'?

I've done a few stocks but never to this level of detail. The one in process is an experimental platform. Probably putting more effort into the stock than the rifle would ever be worth but it's good practice for something finer.

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Whiskering should come after sanding is complete.Use the finest abrasive used in sanding, or steelwool.If steel wool, be sure to get all the steel slivers off before finishing.
Mike

Judge #413972 08/09/15 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted By: Judge
Steven Dodd Hughes (SDH) has a tutorial on this site about applying Behlen stain after filling pores. It should be in the new DIY section.


Thanks. As I read through it I saw that SDH said he did not sand any more after the stain was applied. I plan on using Tru-oil and I am curious if anyone continued to wet sand after each application of Tru-oil? He also commented that we found the Blood Red stain too red. Does anyone have a picture used the Blood Red stain?

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The basic procedure for applying Tru Oil is to lightly sand (with a very fine grit) between coats. This takes the finish back to the wood, or close to it, to fill the pores without building up too much thickness. Their slogan is/was "the filler is in the finish". Birchwood Casey's instructions for the oil are pretty good. Wet sanding with a thinned finish is a different method to create a slurry of sanding dust and fill the grain in one or two coats. Google around for instructions on that.

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