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Forums10
Topics39,500
Posts562,120
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Jul 28th, 2025
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,405
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,405 |
The Birchwood Casy stock sheen and conditioner works great for dulling down a glossy Tru-oil finish enough to make it very attractive.
B.Dudley
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,457 Likes: 336
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,457 Likes: 336 |
Wine bars and amateur winos sometimes use nitrogen in partially used containers to displace oxygen so the wine keeps better.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 231
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 231 |
Regarding the Tru Oil drying too fast, you can spread it quickly with a rag or the fat part of your hand. Thinning with linseed will help but soffen the final finish in proportion to how much you add. Maybe try just a little. Agree on the BC stock sheen and conditioner to cut the shine more than rottenstone. I Like the r-stone sheen myself.
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 150
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 150 |
Another question. If I want to use Behlen Blood Red stain, when do I apply it? After dry sanding the stock or after the first few diluted applications of Tru-oil to fill the bores? Also, at what stage should the checkered areas be stained? Thanks, Patrick.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 231
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 231 |
Steven Dodd Hughes (SDH) has a tutorial on this site about applying Behlen stain after filling pores. It should be in the new DIY section.
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,939 Likes: 343
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,939 Likes: 343 |
As to the question about whiskering,keep doing it until no more rise.
Mike
Last edited by Der Ami; 08/08/15 03:20 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 349 Likes: 12
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 349 Likes: 12 |
Thank you Mike.
Simple as I should have guessed.
Does it make a difference where in the sanding regime the "whiskering" occurs? That is, 'sand at 220, whisker, resand at 220, rewhisker, etc.' or 'sand at 220, whisker, sand at 400, rewhisker, etc.'?
I've done a few stocks but never to this level of detail. The one in process is an experimental platform. Probably putting more effort into the stock than the rifle would ever be worth but it's good practice for something finer.
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,939 Likes: 343
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,939 Likes: 343 |
Whiskering should come after sanding is complete.Use the finest abrasive used in sanding, or steelwool.If steel wool, be sure to get all the steel slivers off before finishing.
Mike
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 150
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 150 |
Steven Dodd Hughes (SDH) has a tutorial on this site about applying Behlen stain after filling pores. It should be in the new DIY section. Thanks. As I read through it I saw that SDH said he did not sand any more after the stain was applied. I plan on using Tru-oil and I am curious if anyone continued to wet sand after each application of Tru-oil? He also commented that we found the Blood Red stain too red. Does anyone have a picture used the Blood Red stain?
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 231
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 231 |
The basic procedure for applying Tru Oil is to lightly sand (with a very fine grit) between coats. This takes the finish back to the wood, or close to it, to fill the pores without building up too much thickness. Their slogan is/was "the filler is in the finish". Birchwood Casey's instructions for the oil are pretty good. Wet sanding with a thinned finish is a different method to create a slurry of sanding dust and fill the grain in one or two coats. Google around for instructions on that.
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