Don:
Thanks for the info. I have had a number of guns over the years but to the best of my knowledge none of them were fitted to actually draw the hook from the hingepin. Of course they weren't in the class of a purdey. One further question, strength wise which in your opinion adds the most; a properly fitted Jones, a properly fitted rear lump, or a properly fitted top bolt. From my limited perspective it does not really seem to be as desirable to actually unload the hinge, as much as to simply share its load. Any of these if properly fitted will do so.
Shotgunjones;
I will say I am in full agreement with this post.
Two guns which I presently have though are worthy of comment I think in this thread, though I have mentioned them before.
One is a lowly J P Clabrough, Birmingham proofed, the Other a KNock-About VL&D/J P Sauer. Both are double underbolted (No Draw) with Doll's Head. Neither has compensated bolts, Neither the bolt nor the bites in the lumps have any taper to them. Both are still tight & on face, though both are more than 100 years old. On both the rear surface of the front lump cams the bolt back in closing so the top lever is not latched open. In studying these actions it seems to me as the gun is closed, firmly but not forcibly, as the bolt clears it snaps home with virtually no friction, thus no wear.
Might it be that a tapered bolt while "Compensating" for wear in fact actually induces said Wear.
