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#466351 12/22/16 10:29 AM
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I need to find a way to remove a glued on fluorescent sight my father put on his Browning Superposed for boar hunting with slugs.

The bluing is prefect and I do not want to damage it by using the wrong solvent.


Michael Dittamo
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i would try gentle heat first before any chemicals

hair dryer on high or an electric heat gun on low to medium- that will not be enough to affect the solder or the blue -- not a torch

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Some adhesives will release when frozen close to 0 F and the object given a gentle but firm rap.

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Most epoxies begin to soften and break down by the time they reach 180 degrees F or so. Cyanoacrylate (instant or crazy-type) glues are very strong in tension or a straight pull, but weak in shear. So a sharp rap from the side may break the bond, especially if it is frozen first as GLS suggests. Then any cyanoacrylate residue left behind can be softened and removed with acetone.


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I am not aware of any common solvents that will harm bluing. I'd like to know if anyone else has evidence of the contrary. Thanks.

SRH


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I agree with the others who answered and spoke to the removal of the glued on front sight. But I am more interested in the chokes of this Superposed O/U- and how accurate it was with slugs- Did your father ever kill a boar with this gun and slugs?I had read somewhere, that jut as much as a side-by-side double the right barrel will tend to drift a slug to the left, and vice versa for the left barrel. I am not an O/U man, and in my 65 plus years of shot gunning, have never fired a slug from any double barreled shotgun, no matter the orientation of the barrels. Just curious I guess, if you don't mind answering- RWTF


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He killed at least two boar with it in Germany in the sixties when it was full and mod with Brenneke slugs. Later he had it tubed by Briley and killed at least one boar in Tennessee. I don't know what type of slug he used then. That is when he added the sight as his vision was going down a bit.

He brought the Superposed in 1956 when it cost him a months Captains pay. It was one of only three guns he used the others being a German guild 16ga BLNE, and a 1870's Hodgson Damascus Hammer-gun which he used for skeet and quail. (I loaded low pressure loads for him)

I have never zeroed slugs with the Browning, but I once tested Brenneke slugs through my Fox Sterlingworth when I was in Alaska and found at 25 yards the barrels fired four slugs ( 2 from each barrel) within a 4 inch circle which was all I needed know if I ever ran into a bear while bird hunting.

The Browning was his primary gun and the first gun I ever shot well on a trap range. I want to use it for upland and that sight bothers me.

I will try mild heat tomorrow and see how it goes, and then try acetone

Last edited by old colonel; 12/22/16 10:47 PM.

Michael Dittamo
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I don't believe any solvents will harm blueing. Acetone should do the trick but lacquer thinner might work better. Keep the wood well away and no open flames or running electrical motors in the same room!

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RWTF: The only double that I ever used for slugs was an Ithaca/SKB mod 100 12 ga with 26" barrels choked IC/Mod.That gun would put two Winchester Foster type slugs in the same hole at 50 yards,but unfortunately about 18" high at that range. The first time I tried it on paper I thought I had completely missed the target with the 2nd shot, so I tried again, with the same result. Digging into the dirt back stop revealed what was happening. I killed my first deer with that gun, but missed probably the biggest rack buck I ever shot at when I forgot to hold low on him. The gun also doubled on that big rack deer, so I quit using it.


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