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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 653
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 653 |
Please don't gut-shoot me and throw me in the hog pen, but I fetched home a non-double the other evening, actually it isn't even a shotgun.  OK, it's a Ruger 44 Carbine, but my question would apply to sxs's too. On top of the stock, right behind the receiver, there is a chip of wood missing. It's about 1/4" wide by 1/2" long by 1/8" deep, give or take a little. I'm sanding the stock to refinish, and saving the "sawdust" from my sanding. I've read here, but can't find, how to go about mixing glue and this dust to make a filler. All I have on hand is Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue. Is this what I need to use, or is there something else that would be better? All else I can think of is to sand the whole area down to the bottom of this chipped place. It might not look quite right, but shouldn't be a problem for any other reason. Any good suggestions? Thanks, Curtis
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812 |
Curt:
I'd think almost any sort of epoxy resin would be better. You'd need a masking tape dam around the area and overfill. Stick shellac of a similar color might work if it doesn't break out.
jack
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 72
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 72 |
That sounds like a pretty big piece of wood, might be better to gouge out some wood from the barrel channel and fit it to the chipped spot and glue with cryoacylate type super glue. better the fit, the better it looks.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 653
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 653 |
I found a thread on another site that suggested to fill holes etc to use either an epoxy like Jack said, or something called tite-bond. Think it said either could be colored to get a close match, and use my sanding dust to thicken the witch's brew. If I trusted myself to not split the whole thing in half I could get a piece of wood out of the through-hole in the stock and splice it in like dogdigger said. But I know how my eleven left thumbs usually cooperate. Thanks guys, and if anybody else has an idea I'll sure listen and appreciate the tips. Curtis
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,038
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,038 |
I hope you have better luck with glued in sawdust than I do. It always looks like glued in sawdust. I think I get a better match on color with Acraglass.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9 |
I think a better repair would be to cut the place missing wood to a regular size on three sides, match the wood as close as possible for grain and cut a shape to fit, color match some epoxy and glue it in. I would then form the top in place.
bill
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812 |
Good job of gluing a new wood dutchman always means creating a faying surface or cavity which is easily replicatable in the dutchman. And there's always a glueline. No glueline between AcraGlas and wood; it's all glue til you get to the wood.
jack
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 653
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 653 |
I got my dial calipers after it for a better measurement, it's just a little bit more accurate than my four eyes. Not quite 3/8" wide at the widest, .070" deep (1/16+) at the deepest, and 1/2 long. I'm really tempted to just dress that whole area down level. I don't think that will show any more, maybe even less, than a "fix". Curtis
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,698 Likes: 46
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,698 Likes: 46 |
Without doubt it would be preferable to dress the area down to remove the blemish PROVIDING it can be done so as to blend in with the surrounds.Nothing looks worse than a bodged repair.It will need to look like a seamless transition into the metal work.
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