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Joined: Mar 2013
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
Hopefully the Action doesn't have rust on it if it still has the old lacquer on it.
To remove the old lacquer, mask the wood with blue painter's tape. (It won't harm the wood finish when you remove it) Use lacquer thinner or acetone with cotton balls/cloth to remove the old lacquer. For near the edges next to the tape, use "Makeup Applicators", which are Q Tips with one pointy end. Carefully use the pointy end for at least the first 1/4" next to the wood.
Regards Ken
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 638 Likes: 2
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 638 Likes: 2 |
I've not heard of a frontier pad before, is it softer than bronze wool?
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 753
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 753 |
I've not heard of a frontier pad before, is it softer than bronze wool? I don't know about softer - but here is the comparison from the site "Frontier Metal Cleaner is significantly more effective than other "sponge" cleaners like bronze wool due to the shape of the individual strands. Since each strand is a thin, ribbon of metal with sharp leading and trailing edges, the "sponge" has the effect of hundreds, if not thousands of small razor blades scraping away at surface build up. Steel or bronze wool, which is round in cross section does not have this advantage."
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,553
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,553 |
I would also vote to remove any grease n grime from where ever possible on the action, but gently,then you will get to see whats what, If you have access to one of those water vibro cleaners, n can take it apart a bit, that might work wonders. If not,a tooth brush & some soap might work...or some of the above, But work with the gentlest way first. Put up some before n after pics , so we can see if we were right,,eh? cheers n good luck franc
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 28
Boxlock
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OP
Boxlock
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 28 |
Im also wondering if the browning is some varnish on the barrels and what to do with the flaking finish on the stock? Its not not flaking off yet, still hardened and I kind of like it.
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
The barrels actually look pretty good, I'm not sure if anything is really necessary. The twist pattern is very visible, and the color looks fairly black. To keep it original, lightly remove any rust with bore cleaner and 0000 steel wool. (Or Frontier Pad). Degrease with acetone, then relacquer.
You can either use a spray can of clear gloss lacquer, or buy a bottle of clear gloss nail polish, cut 50/50 with acetone, and brush it on with a small, square tipped artist's brush. Same with action.
Use Renaissance Wax on all surfaces, including the wood.
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743 |
Ken61 has given great advise. Also agree this is definitely a Twist pattern, not Damascus.
Miller/TN I Didn't Say Everything I Said, Yogi Berra
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
A few more comments about the barrels. When they came from the factory they were Black & White, and coated with nitrocellulose lacquer. Over time, as the exterior of the tubes were rubbed and cleaned, the lacquer was removed. Once that happened, the coating was exposed to oxygen, and the process of conversion from black to the more stable brown form of rust began.
What's my point? Simple. If the tubes have areas of brownish color, it's not a remaining additional coating, but the original coating that has turned. This means that if you go all "Hog Wild" on those areas thinking there is black underneath, there's not. You'll only "Silver" the barrels, removing the pattern completely. Only a recolor will bring it back. So, be very careful not to.
Make sure you post pics once you're done, pictures of NIGs with significant amounts of C/coloring are hard to come by.
Regards Ken
Last edited by Ken61; 01/05/17 10:48 AM.
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743 |
Ken is correct on the "Brown" of the barrels. This turning to brown over time is one reason so many do not realize that most US doubles were finished in black & White. Personally with that much original finish remaining I would preserve it rather than refinish just to get the "Correct" black finish. It is of course your gun & you can do as you please with it. What you have now though certainly appears to be original finish, a refinish would not be.
Miller/TN I Didn't Say Everything I Said, Yogi Berra
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,401 Likes: 16
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,401 Likes: 16 |
From one collector's view point, don't do anything! It is a gem just the way it is.
Walter c. Snyder
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