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Joined: Mar 2013
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
Clearly better. I would have done more rustings, but I go well into the 20s for three iron.
Regards Ken
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 977 Likes: 23
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 977 Likes: 23 |
Thank. Since I missed the oil curing step, I'm stripping the lacquer and rusting some more.
What I was saying earlier, about how the darkening effect of the lacquer is difficult to gauge: I went back and etched again before the photo above because of that. Even wetting the surface doesn't fully show what the lacquer will do to the depth.
Closing in on the process I think. Back shortly with another progress report (image).
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
On your next post, put all three pictures in it.
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 977 Likes: 23
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 977 Likes: 23 |
You're omitting two steps. After the rustings, the barrels need to be cured, usually by soaking in an oil, then they are degreased, polished, and finally lacquered. I've cured for nearly 24 hours. Can you comment on how you polish, between degreasing and lacquer? Concerned about taking finish off. Thank you.
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
It depends. It's a judgement call. Since my procedure is one I've developed, you'll have to deteremine the degree of abrasive you need by "reading" the barrels, then polish as you see fit.
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 977 Likes: 23
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 977 Likes: 23 |
It depends. It's a judgement call. Since my procedure is one I've developed, you'll have to determine the degree of abrasive you need by "reading" the barrels, then polish as you see fit. My concern is around using something that accomplishes the purpose, polishing, but does not remove the finish that so much work was put into applying. While the crolle is filling in, and the layers are becoming more defined, they are not retain well enough a "wet" appearance. The look very nice when oil is applied for curing. Degreasing to polish and lacquer dries them out of course. After lacquering they look good, but not as good as when they were oiled.
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 977 Likes: 23
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 977 Likes: 23 |
An update for those watching me learn (or embarrass myself) in public:
Bought some Renaissance wax for better sheen at the end.
Started over from the white on the 3 iron Oxford to etch as a first step, which is done by some (Gaddy had done so), but not all. Some feel it doesn't make any appreciable difference. So far, I agree with them.
Lastly, "fun" is not what I'd call this process right now. Highly variable is more along the lines of what this is like, however, I'm determined to become good at it.
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 977 Likes: 23
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 977 Likes: 23 |
Clearly better. I would have done more rustings, but I go well into the 20s for three iron. Ken, I believe you mentioned having suggestions for carding the sides and top of top ribs, but protecting the edges from becoming too bright. Would you have time to elaborate on that? I have suitable backers for getting down in the grooves between barrels and ribs, but overdoing it on the edges.
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
A light application of stronger solution, using a swab is probably the best. Apply after you have coated the barrels with whatever strength solution you're using. It requires a very light touch.
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 977 Likes: 23
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 977 Likes: 23 |
A light application of stronger solution, using a swab is probably the best. Apply after you have coated the barrels with whatever strength solution you're using. It requires a very light touch. I think I understand. My interpretation for this is that because the etchant is more powerful, the carding can be less vigorous, resulting in less abuse to the rib edges. Am I reading you right?
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