A few points. Keith is right about the ferro-ferric coating being the result of the electrolytic process. It comes off easily, much like after boiling. I've used the molasses method, it works, but much slower. I find that for light rust on tubes, overnight is usually long enough for electrolysis. Heavy rust on things like wrenches, axe heads, etc can stay in mutch longer. It does create a little hydrogen gas, so I always run my ventilation fan when doing it. I like it because it avoids abrasives, important when dealing with thin tubes.

After any process, when the oxide is removed and I won't be prepping right away I coat with this, the only product I've found that stops oxidation completely, including the coating on Damascus tubes. It's the same stuff I coat bores with before shipping.

theinhibitor.com

I had to go to a large marine cooler for my tank, it's long enough for tubes, with a welded rebar frame inside for the anode. For bores, you have to suspend an anode rod inside the barrel tubes.

Regards
Ken


I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.