doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Bottom rib trouble

With the "space-age" adhesives that are in use today, in industry, I wonder why soldering of barrels, even hard brazing as is done on Blasers and others, has not begun to give way more to the use of these adhesives. My little inexpensive Yildiz .410 S x S was built, I am told, with the barrels and ribs joined with some type of high strength adhesive, epoxy, or some such. It looks very professional, is colored as to be practically invisible, and has to be much more economical.

I have never done so, but if I ever need to call Briley for any reason again I intend to ask them if they have ever seen a problem with this. They are the sole warranty repair company in the U.S.

I would never rejoin a loose rib that was originally soldered with any type adhesive, but the fact remains that adhesives are used at NASA to hold the heat shielding tiles on the space shuttles, and the temps on the skin reach 2300 degrees. Ya' think double barrels get that hot?

SRH

is a 60 vintage Beretta worth the full barrel redue....I think not.....just a solid patch job under the forend with a little touch up.....

Correct diagnosis. PM sent.

Dave: That is not a difficult fix. As long as the top rib is solid, it would be clamped in place while the bottom rib and loop are relaid. With any luck, it wouldn't require rebluing.

I don't think many of them needed to for a problem to develop. I've witnessed the ribs coming loose, as in being shot off, on 20ga. FN Superposed guns twice in
'hot corners' in SA when it was no hassle to take your own guns down to shoot. Those ribs were soft soldered; neither were mine. I've shot or had the rib come loose on a 101 Winchester trap gun; it didn't fall off, but became detached for some inches forward of the receiver and ended up requiring relaying both side ribs as well to doit correctly on the repairs. Actually may have cost me more than the gun was worth [pretty sure it did, but you know how hard it is to face THAT reality], but it was one of the first 101's and had that small grip like an old FN 20 Superposed that just had a certain 'feel' I'd become fond of & the loose rib bugged me. I still enjoy shooting it and the work was done correctly. Had I some 'glue' like you ref., I would have gladly used it:-)

Presently have a nice French 16 SxS w/a lower loose rib issue, not wholly detached, but needs remedy. Lug is fine, not affected in the least which is surprising & gun remains on face & tight as a tick. Affecting a repair to the lower rib may end up exactly as SKB said. I dunno, yet. Its a bucket list item.

Solder joints are not all equal, material difs., flux, who's doin' it, solder itself.. they all play in the equation. And as far as I know all of them irrespective of any of the aforementioned will fail well before 2300�F.

Short answer to your question: Nope, but they don't need to before the threshold of failure is reached for soldered ribs.

My question was really asked "tongue in cheek". Barrels cannot get nearly that hot from shooting.

I don't believe it is usually a heat issue that causes ribs to come loose. Vibration and corrosion probably have a lot more to do with it. There is no way that shooting causes a set of barrels to get hot enough to melt soft solder, even in SA. I've been there, too, and shot a doublegun exclusively twice, and know how hot they can get. But, I cannot believe it is that hot.

And, I have been through some of the same things you related, with other gun makes, and know all too well how easy it is to get upside down with a gun when you have to get ribs relaid. I managed to sell mine for enough to recoup most of the $$$$, but if I keep messing with these old guns long enough it will prolly happen again.

All my best,

SRH

A pretty common way forend lugs pull loose is by shooting pre-mounted Skeet.
Reefing back on the forend and maintaining a tight mount all the way through the shot concentrates recoil on the lug.

I've seen maybe a dozen forend lugs pulled loose in this way. They take the rib with them.

Quick question...should the lug take all the recoil, or will the jolt be shared with the radius area where the forend iron contacts the receiver?

There should be virtually no recoil force where the forend iron contacts the frame. The gun will of course recoil "Backwards", the tight grip on the forend would thus have a tendency to push it "Forward. If the lug solder gives then it will put forward pressure on the rib. pressure would not be exerted back into the frame nor on the portion of rib between the lug & breech.

OK, makes sense. Thanks.