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Joined: Sep 2011
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Have had some luck lapping the chamber for cartridges that are just slightly tight at the web.
Fine valve grinding compound on the cartridge web only and rotate by hand.
Probably no more than .001-.002" with this process.
Chuck

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If a marked up case shows tight in the body you can push the case in a bit more putting a washer on top of the shell holder, knocking the sized case out with a rod.

This for size test only, push it in further likely to set the shoulder back . May give a clue to what's tight though. . Dies will size hollow brass won't reduce the diamater soiid brass at the base . Tight at the base driving in further likely cause a stuck case very difficult to hammer out.

Way I found out my 25 Kraig was base tight cut a case in half chambered the bottom, tight with little body and no neck. I thought it was the neck, having sized the cases down from 30/40.

It's a puzzle,have to keep at it until solved.

Boats

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You can push the 7x57 deep(er) into a standard 30-06 FL die (if you happen to have one around) and not set the 7x57 shoulder back.

Using a LR Primer Pocket Swage replacement for the standard shellholder makes a nice pusher for the case in this process. It is flat, allows the case to be pushed as deep as possible into the die and the p/pocket swage punch keeps the p/pocket on the case from deforming/downsizing as a result of the solid base swage work.
A suitable sized steel washer is of course much more likly to be on hand in most reloaders shops and works well too. Just check the primer pocket after the work and make sure they didn't reduce in size a bit. The matr'l has to go somewhere.

Using the FL die you can swage the solid base down but you need a very strong linkage advantage press to do it and only in very small increments of a couple .000 at a time.
Don't skimp on the case lube and use a knock out pin to punch or press (prefered) the swaged case back out.
Don't try to use the standard shell holder/case rim method to withdraw it when doing this. It'll shear off just about every time.

You may have luck using a 45acp FL sizer also. They are usually about .467/468 at the base.
Plus no issue with the case shoulder above.
A carbide sizer die may crack the carbide 'ring' inset into the steel die body if you use it for this swage process.
I'd use a standard old steel FL sizer for the try.

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Kutter,
Using the primer pocket swage is a good trick, thanks for the idea, I had been using a "shop made" blank, with a flat top, then recutting(if necessary) the primer pockets with a "uniformer".
Ken, don't forget to remove the expander assy. before doing this. Don't ask how I know to do this.
Mike

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Originally Posted by Ken Georgi
Some additional photos of the guns showing some of the finishing details.

Additional barrel markings. Anyone recognize either of the marks on the left or right side? The initials with the heart appear to be "E.W". Likely the craftsman who made all or part of the rifle? I'm not sure what the two what look like cursive "R"s represent.

[Linked Image from image.ibb.co]

The "E.W." (often cursive, but sometimes straight) has appeared here in the forum various times, and I think Raimey gave several possible interpretations for it being a barrel maker's or barrel assembler's touchmark.

Now, the heart sign is a bit intriguing to me (but aren't mattters of heart always...?), because I have seen it too.
I find it on the 6,5x58R barrel of a nice Drilling of mine, Suhl nitroproofed; but the adjacent (repeated) small initials are "R.H" there.

Carcano

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[Linked Image from thumbs2.imgbox.com] [Linked Image from thumbs2.imgbox.com]

Yeah, those stamps of coupled/interlaced KR, whatever, are prevalent on post WWI platforms and are tube maker's marks where they transformed Belgian roughed bored tubes to a final product.

Too, I have seen the Heart stamp prior but it was associated w/ Emil Eckoldt.


Serbus,

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Originally Posted by ellenbr
Yeah, those stamps of coupled/interlaced KR, whatever, are prevalent on post WWI platforms and are tube maker's marks where they transformed Belgian roughed bored tubes to a final product.

Too, I have seen the Heart stamp prior but it was associated w/ Emil Eckoldt.

Thank you. It is almost certainly "KK", because it is very near to the handwritten Sütterlin style of the capital letter K (yes, I do write in Sütterlin, although rarely...).

Could be Karl Kelber, of which there may also have been more than one, but the issue is controversely disputed on three pages :-D :
https://www.germanguns.com/vb5/foru...99-karl-kelber-gewehrlauffabrikant/page2

And I have checked out Emil Eckoldt, thank you. His signet was a slightly larger heart with the three letters EES inside.

Carcano

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Most interesting about the Suetterlin Style text......

I am skeptical of ole Karl Kelber, but I would however vote for Kasper Klett or Karl Klett.... I will thumb thru some images to find the best one & ask one of the Suhl mechanics.


True on Emil Eckoldt, but I have seen the single Heart/Harz several times.


Hochachtungsvoll,

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rse

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Are you quite certain that the KKs aren't to RRs from Roe
Römerwerke¿ I haven't seen exactly that on components out of Römerwerke/Rhöemerwerke but I have seen a double R with a Sword thru them on a 1925(June 10th) Römerpistolenbuechse advert in Der Waffenschmied. Now, I have no idea on the Suetterlin Style mind you.


Hochachtungsvoll,

Raimey
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Originally Posted by ellenbr
Are you quite certain that the KKs aren't two RRs from Römerwerke?

Not just "quite", but with 150 % certainty.
Absolutely.

With Antiqua-based print fonts, it is different. A lightly struck capital K, notably on a curved surface, can easily appear an R. I have a Drilling which posed exactly this quandary.

However, with this Sütterlin based capital font, any doubt is impossible. Cannot even remotely resemble any "R".
Google Sütterlin K or Sütterlin Großbuchstabe K, you will see the vast difference.

Regards, Carcano

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