doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Repair or replace cracked stock on Beretta DP?

Please don't throw away $1000 with Cole for replacement wood for this gun when Dennis Earl Smith, aka "the Stock Doctor" can fix it like new for a very reasonable price.
http://www.thestockdr.com/contact.php
JR

Total replacement or expensive Stock Doctors might be OK for a severely damaged or splintered stock with missing pieces. But for a clean split in a wrist where it has no missing wood, I'd be more inclined to save a ton of money by repairing it myself.

Gunsmithing repairs aren't for everyone, and many Bubba repairmen should not be allowed anywhere near a broken gun stock. But with a clean split that can be spread open slightly, I would carefully coat the surrounding wood and checkering with Johnson's Paste Wax, being very careful to not contaminate the broken wood surfaces. I'd use pressure to open the split and then apply some Titebond II wood glue or perhaps some thinned Accraglas epoxy, and use compressed air to blow the adhesive deep into the crack. Don't be tempted to mechanically wedge the split open because the wedges or tools will compress the wood and leave a gap when removed. Some care is needed here to avoid blowing glue all over hell. Allow the split to close and lightly clean up most of the squeeze-out without disturbing the wax coating on the surface, and then wrap the repair area with waxed paper and bind the split closed with surgical rubber tubing. The waxed paper keeps the glue squeeze-out from sticking to the rubber tubing. Long strips of inner tube work also well for clamping irregular surfaces that you don't want to damage.

After the adhesive has set or cured, remove the wrap, and if you have applied the wax correctly as a release agent, you can lift any additional glue squeeze out without even refinishing or re-cutting the checkering. An X-acto knife can be helpful at this stage. I've found that Titebond II repairs in clean close fitting joints are virtually invisible, and as strong or stronger than the original wood. Epoxy is better than Titebond II if the joint can't be perfectly fitted closed, and there is any slight gap. But naturally, the greater the gap, the more visible and amateurish the repair will look. In some cases, such as where the stock is oiled, it will be better to strip the finish, de-oil, and resort to sanding, re-cutting checkering, and refinishing after the glue repair. A pro might be a better choice for those without the tools, experience, or patience to do it right. A wrist that has split because the wood grain layout was poor to begin with might require additional reinforcement to prevent it from happening again.

If you can make use of a Silver Pigeon Monte Carlo Trap stock.
I have one for a very reasonable price. PM me if interested.

I have found that cracks are usually the result of a Cause. What ever the Cause, unless you remove it, the crack will appear again.

DIY projects are fine and I have encouraged many a caller to do so in order to keep the budget in balance. Keith, your tutorial is well thought out and delivered. It will work as you have stated. Thank you for sharing.

Like CJO, I have fixed many a broken stock from Beretta, Browning, Winchester, etc....wood selection and lay out of grain flow are imperative to longevity of life for a gunstock.

Zumkopf, I am willing to advise you. Send me pictures of your broken gunstock. I will give you free counsel.

Yes, DES/TSD is VALID!!!!!!!