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Forums10
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Jul 28th, 2025
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 240
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 240 |
Mark that is some beautiful wood. Are you referring to the lines paralleled by my yellow lines? Or are your referring to the fuzzy spot circled in Red? 
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,462 Likes: 89
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,462 Likes: 89 |
I can see those red and white scratches....
If you want the ultimate rub down between coats for an oil finish....rub it between coats with a 'Mirka Abralon' pad (add a few drops of butcher block oil to the pad). Wipe the stock down before the next coat of finish...the guy assured me the butcher block oil won't react with an oil finish.
They come in 1,2 and 4 thousand grit, keep it in a zip lock bag and one pad might last forever.
They also work great dry for preping wood before the first coat of finish and in between coats of padding laquer.
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,583
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,583 |
I don't know as much about stock finishing as Bill H has forgotten.  I suggested the fine scotchbrite to blend the areas because I've found some walnut (claro especially) has such differences in hardness. The soft surface areas get smooth faster than the hard, and I think Erik's yellow lines are on a hard area.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 64
Junior Member
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OP
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 64 |
The only legs I'm pulling is chicken, the wife has me on a diet.
Homeless,
Your white lines are exactly what I'm talking about. I went back a few steps as Yeti recommended with 320 wet sanding. It seems to have helped. I just finished the 400 grit but might need another go at it before moving on to 600. What is your take on the area circled in red?
I've been told not to use a mix as a wet sand, it restricts the red dye?
Yetti,
Are you suggesting scotchbrite between sanding or as a final before red dye is applied?
Michael,
This is serial #54 that had the original gloss finish, sent back to CSMC for a strip and the new oil finish along with ejectors problems. They replaced the forend which was the original slender version for a larger splinter (which I do not care for). I'd love to reshape the forend and recheck the stock but I don't want to put a lot of money into it. I've not checkered before and wouldn't want this to be my first project.
Last edited by Mark Copeland; 07/24/07 09:19 AM.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,462 Likes: 89
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,462 Likes: 89 |
I'm rubbing my eyes and I still don't see any scratches....the area in red looks alittle cloudy might just be soaking up more finish.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,462 Likes: 89
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,462 Likes: 89 |
In the picture of the bottom blank what would stop you from tilting the grip area up some ?
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 64
Junior Member
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OP
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 64 |
Joe,
I didn't draw those lines in. It will be reshaped
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