doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Cyanoacrylate to protect wood inside action

http://www.goattuffproducts.com/index.php?op=11 for tiny cracks

Ultra-low viscosity for wood impregnation
http://www.votawtool.com/insta-cure-super-glue-ultra-thin.html

Try MinWax Wood Haardener.

It is not CA,but works as well or better.

The glue I use is "Hot Stuff", designed to wick deep into the wood. It is available in a couple of different viscosity's.

Fallschirmjaeger,
I've used Hot Stuff years ago, although it isn't found much in my area anymore. The main brands I use are from Bob Smith Industries and Pacer Corp. They are most comonly found in hobby shops that cater to models. I use the medium formula for slower set-ups and some gap filling. The thin formula is used to join parts already in contact with each other and faster set-up and greater penetration. By fast, I mean instantly as the thin formula is instant. I've used the thin formula on end grained wood and to provide strength. On thin cracks it would penetrate very deeply for a good repair if needed.
Karl
http://www.bsi-inc.com/
https://www.zapglue.com/

I have used CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) to protect wood. It can be applied for use under varnish and other finishes. It is primarily used in marine applications. Never tried CA based glues for wood preservation.

https://www.exoticblanks.com/E-Z-Bond-Thin-CA-5-CPS-Choose-a-size.html


I used a lot of CA glues when I was making pens on a lathe. You could reinforce woods which were so rotten that your fingernail could cut right through them. Soak the soft areas with a little CA and let it set for a minute. It gets hard as a rock then and you can cut it with sharp tools. CA comes in different thickness with CPS numbers to tell you the general thickness of the liquid. Thick ones penetrate poorly but fill larger gaps and are generally stronger but much slower to cure. The thinnest stuff I could find was this one above. CPS5 is much thinner than water and penetrates wood very well. Once it sets up it is very stable.

Beware it sets up quickly and is exothermic. Gets hot as it sets up to those with liberal arts degrees. If you squirt it on paper towels and throw them in a pile they can get so hot to become a fire hazard. Use in well ventilated areas and have safety glasses and latex or latex free gloves on your hands. If you get the CPS5 on your fingers you will instantly glue them together and give yourself a decent second degree or worse burn, if you get too much of it on them. This is so thin that it tends to splash droplets easily and just one drop near your eye will ruin your month. Also CA glue is a Cyanoacrylate compound and we know is not good for your health, so use in well ventilated areas. People do become very sensitive to using it and some become very ill if used poorly.

Hot Stuff is available from Brownell's and Connecticut Shotgun.
It is available in thin and gap filling. The thin is like water and will literally run through a crack in a stock and come out the other side. Best stuff I have ever used.

[quote=Rockdoc]Thank you for your responses and insights regarding my question.

I�m doing the restocking for a friend and he was the one who inquired about coating the inside wood areas. It seemed like a good idea and my plan is to apply the cyanoacrylate after I�ve finished applying finish to the outside of the stock. Originally, I�d planned to leave the inside wood unfinished. My main concern is accidentally gluing things together with any excess cyanoacrylate left in the wood pores or on the wood surface. I also didn�t know that cyanoacrylate could be thinned, or thinned versions could be purchased, I�ll certainly go with the thinned version if I continue down this path.

Once again thank you all for your help.

I would suggest you seal the inletting with cyanoacrylate BEFORE you do stock finishing as an accidental spill on your newly finished stock would not be fun to fix.

I have always sealed the inletted areas on gunstocks I have made with shellac, but I don't see where CA could hurt. Shellac's a lot cheaper for sealing, if sealing is the only concern.

SRH

Stan's comment above is something I've wondered and dealt with for too many years to tell. I mean, why would a person after spending either or both untold hours and dollars on some primo piece of wood and stock production want to save a couple insignificant bucks on something like cheeeeper sealer for something as long-term important as sealing? Personally I've found the scrooge urge very difficult to overcome and have to constantly remind myself that life is too short to get wound up about such stupid things. And that the dollars I leave behind will just be pissed away by someone else anyway hahaha
JMO of course - - feel free to pinch the pennies