doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Coin Finish Discoloration

So, I made the mistake of shooting in hot weather (sweaty palms) and not wiping down my gun afterwards for a few days. And apparently I have paid the price. The nice shiny coin finish on my near-new Ugartechea has discolored slightly in a few spots on the typical carry area. Nothing bad, but disappointing nonetheless.

First off, let me ask -- is this common for coin finishes? I have never had a similar problem with stainless steel pistols, so I was a little surprised, although I am sure I have no one to blame but myself.

Second, is there any easy fix? The discoloration is minor, but I was so happy with this gun and now it is marred ever so slightly.

Oh well, since it is no longer perfect I guess I won't be quite as worried when I take it into the brush this fall.

Is it possible that a very fine abrasive polish will put things right? I don't usually have instant oxidation problems of the glandular kind but did manage to do something similar to a nitrided Browning. Bit of Simichrome removed it.

jack

I would try small amount of Flitz metal polish on Q-tip. Be careful, you don't want to make a shaving mirror out of that frame!

try a rubber pencil eraser. dry.

Jamie

I sort of like a little tarnish on a coin finish...gives it character.

If it bugs you that much the flitz or simichrome will work....go lightly and leave a little tarnish in the engraving [character factor]...

If you take a piece of the finest steel wool made (I think it is #0000), a popsicle stick (to use as backing for the steel wool) and rub a little red jewelers' rouge into the wool pad, then rub the area affected I think you will findyour beautiful coin finish restored with no discoloration. Works for me on my Victor Sarasqueta #4E. Chops

I'd gp for )))) steel wool plain. ken

"... First off, let me ask -- is this common for coin finishes? I have never had a similar problem with stainless steel pistols, so I was a little surprised, although I am sure I have no one to blame but myself..."

Newlyn,
What this indicates is that your gun has a traditional "coin finish" on a traditional 'low alloy steel' used for most guns. Steels from "mild steel" and even "chromoly steels" are considered low alloy. They are subject to corrosion fairly quickly. Casehardening or deep thru (martensitic) hardening of these steels will increase their corrosion resistance, but not eliminate corrosion susceptability. Traditional "coin finishing" is typically casehardened steel that has been polished, but many other processes have been used to end up with this polished finish.

Stainless steel has high chromium and nickel content that makes it highly corrosion resistant and therefore you won't get that smutty gray corrosion from your hand acids and salts.

I was told my coin finish K20 should be treated as a bare steel gun. Keep coat of oil, vasoline or grease on gun and remove any discoloration with steel wool. Polishes mentioned will overshine. Coin is especially bad for those whose perspiration is especially salty, acidic and "corrosive". Dealer did not even want to sell me gun if I was naturally hard on bluing.

Go easy with that 4-ought, Newlyn. Keep it moving such that the refraction pattern from the scratches isn't unidirectional. A locked-brake skid mark or furrow will draw just as much attention as "overshine".

jack