|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forums10
Topics38,931
Posts550,846
Members14,460
|
Most Online1,344 Apr 29th, 2024
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 659 Likes: 7
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 659 Likes: 7 |
You can use Plaster of Paris to aid in the filling of grain pores. It works quite well and speeds up the filling process.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,880 Likes: 16
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,880 Likes: 16 |
I recall needing a filler for a divot on a stock. I didn't have any wood putty and never liked the stuff anyway. I took a spare stock blank of similar color and sanded up some dust and mixed with superglue.
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,107 Likes: 22
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,107 Likes: 22 |
When I try that it comes out really dark. Am I doing something wrong?
So many guns, so little time!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 286 Likes: 6
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 286 Likes: 6 |
I have found that super glue doesn't take finish well. The plaster route has worked for me or make some saw dust, mix with finish and paste up the area and sand down.
W. E. Boyd
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,880 Likes: 16
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,880 Likes: 16 |
Milt, Same here. If it's in an area of marbling that won't stand out, this works. If you need lighter color, you may have to graft a tiny piece of wood into the stock.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 412 Likes: 4
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 412 Likes: 4 |
I use PCO as my go to finish. You are not on the wrong track. Put three coats on. Level sand....dry. You are not trying to sand to wood. Just leveling out the highs and lows of the finsih. When the pores disappear you are ready to put on the top coats.
I use 320 to level sand. You are correct that 600 doesn't give enough "slurry" for filling pores. Since you are at that 600 level now. Going backward is counter productive. One may use the finish to build and fill pores. You just have to be patient. The can says 6 hour dry time between coats. I prefer a little longer. After 3 coats, I will let the finish set 24 hours before I level sand. I suggest you tape off your checkering. It will save you hours of labor later on.
Dennis Earl Smith/Benefactor Life NRA, ACGG Professional member
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,996 Likes: 493
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,996 Likes: 493 |
I have used rottenstone to fill pores. Worked very well, but I doubt I will ever do it again. I just use oil. Eventually, it shrinks and has to be redone, but I am not the "one last coat forever" school of gun finishing.
The ditty that ends, "... and once a year for life." is closer to my mantra.
_________ BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan) =>/
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,107 Likes: 22
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,107 Likes: 22 |
Chuck, Not a fun job. I used to have a 3/8" plug cutter with matching drill point bit that would work but the plug cutter had trouble cutting anything harder than pine. I have found yellow builders glue (aliphatic? whatever that means) to leave the least trace.
So many guns, so little time!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,457 Likes: 88
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,457 Likes: 88 |
I have used rottenstone to fill pores. Sounds like a plan devised by TeddybOy....
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 659 Likes: 7
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 659 Likes: 7 |
I've used plaster as well as rottenstone. I like rottenstone for the final buffing out the shine to a nice warm matte glow. But the plaster fills the pores and is relatively speaking, invisible with oil. I want to say this recommendation came from one of our English brothers on the board and it has served me well. It's cheap, why not give it a try if you're having issues filling?
|
|
|
|
|
|