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Joined: May 2008
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Sidelock
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The "spreader" tip- AKA- a "Rosebud" with an oxy=acetylene combination torch set(Victor and Smiths are my preference)-- does have slightly larger orfice holes-, and often has a downdraft set, to act as a venturi to mix the ambient oxygen into the flame--

Many plumbers today use a Mapp rig- but bringing copper piping up to soldering joint temperature is a bit different than bringing solder up to flow temp..


"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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Utah,
Looking at your photos, I believe the rib extension has moved to the rear. It may have moved a little and may still be tight, but it has moved, as the rib matting lines no longer mate up with the lines in the top of the rib extension, and looking closely, the sides of the rib extension where it comes out of the barrel face, look to be above the surface of the barrel face. Now it may have moved and still lock up properly, but I doubt it. If it is a "dire" as I think, the only way to repair it, is remove the ribs and all, which are soft soldered. Then with proper heat, remove the rib extension, clean, re flux and silver solder the extension back in place, then reassemble the barrel set. No small job.

When building the barrels, after the barrels are silver soldered together the seat for the rib extension is cut (maybe like 3/16 in or so) and the extension silver soldered in place. AH Fox barrels were built in a similar fashion.
If one tries to re silver solder the extension back where it should be, without cleaning the joint, one stands a good chance of not getting a good joint, and compromising the soft solder joint of the top rib, In my opinion. It generally is worth doing right. IMO


Dennis Potter
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"Without cleaning the joint first off" Words of Welding Wisdom, Mr. Potter- 90% of any properly done welding (brazing-soldering) joint lies in the complete preparation-first- next, complete knowledge of the metallurgy of the joint to be filled-- Any contaminants in the joint will affect the integrity of the weld--RWTF


"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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Sidelock
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And- for the top rib extension cognoscenti extant on this most august forum site- care to compare the top rib extension(s) between L.C. Smith, A.H. Fox and Ithaca NID series double guns??RWTF


"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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Originally Posted By: keith
When you said you were equipped to relay ribs, etc., I naturally assumed you had oxy-acetylene torches, rosebuds, etc. I can't imagine being without such a versatile tool. I have several sets ranging from large torches with 220 cu. ft. oxygen tank to a tiny set with miniature brazing torches and 10 cu. ft. oxygen with size MC acetylene tank. They are useful for so many things aside from gun work that, should you buy a set, you will kick yourself for not doing it sooner.

I bought one larger set new. It was bought with my first paycheck after I graduated from college. My first welding project with it was building a cart for the tanks. The other sets were bought much more reasonably at auctions etc. The cart I built for the small set with a size B acetylene tank and 40 cu.ft. oxygen tank has a collapsable handle, and I can lift it with one hand and put it in the trunk of a car. I don't know anybody who owns an oxy-acetylene outfit that regrets having one.


I regret not having one!
Had access to them(company owned) for most of my adult life. That said, I have always used propane torches of one type or another to relay ribs.


Mike
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Originally Posted By: Dennis Potter
Utah,
Looking at your photos, I believe the rib extension has moved to the rear. It may have moved a little and may still be tight, but it has moved, as the rib matting lines no longer mate up with the lines in the top of the rib extension, and looking closely, the sides of the rib extension where it comes out of the barrel face, look to be above the surface of the barrel face. Now it may have moved and still lock up properly, but I doubt it. If it is a "dire" as I think, the only way to repair it, is remove the ribs and all, which are soft soldered. Then with proper heat, remove the rib extension, clean, re flux and silver solder the extension back in place, then reassemble the barrel set. No small job.

When building the barrels, after the barrels are silver soldered together the seat for the rib extension is cut (maybe like 3/16 in or so) and the extension silver soldered in place. AH Fox barrels were built in a similar fashion.
If one tries to re silver solder the extension back where it should be, without cleaning the joint, one stands a good chance of not getting a good joint, and compromising the soft solder joint of the top rib, In my opinion. It generally is worth doing right. IMO


Dennis,

Extension is "loose".
I purposely opened the gap to show the length. It is still attached at the bottom/rear where it now "pivots". Don't want to move it much so as to not flex/weaken that area.

Was hoping that wiring the ribs and then removing the extension would provide the needed access for cleaning the surfaces. That does not appear to be the case.
Thought about wiring up the ribs and removing the extension, just to see what I am dealing with. But that is almost a guarantee to losing the extension. wink

Not really sure that a Field Grade NID is worth the time & effort to strip and relay the ribs to remove the extension. I AGREE that it would be the correct way to do so from your description of the original/factory extension installation.

I think for now, I'll reassemble the gun as is and sit it aside for another day.
If that day doesn't come in the near future, I'll part out the gun.




Mike
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